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Routes in Great Wall of China

Aurora S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beijing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beijing Extension (11c 35m/12b 40m) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Child of Light S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Doll S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confusing Confucius S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornercopia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corona S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Enter the Dragon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geisha Girl S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ghengis Khan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Go For The Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Happy Ending (Geisha Girl Extension) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heart of the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Pao S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manchurian Candidate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mandarin Orange S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Osama bin Gotten S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peking Duck S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shogun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tiananmen Square S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wrath of Khan S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yellow Peril S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yellow Streak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: 3/1991, Gary Slate, Sandy Redman
Page Views: 8,480 total, 64/month
Shared By: Jon duSaint on Dec 13, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


164 Opinions

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Description

Amazing vertical face that gets harder the higher you go.

Protection

8 bolts
Max McKinnon
San Jose, CA
  5.9
Max McKinnon   San Jose, CA
  5.9
I lent my yellow grigri, magneto carabiner, and top rope setup to another party after I lead heart of the sun. There were a lot of people there and I think another party grabbed it on mistake. After I got done on another route, my grigri and biner were missing, and just my rope and anchor remained. It is marked with yellow nail polish. Please check and contact me if you accidentally grabbed it. I'll pay for shipping + $20 REI or backcountry giftcard if you return them. May 31, 2016
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
  5.10a
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
  5.10a
super great pitch! Maybe I was just wrecked as I cooled down on this but I thought it was a bit pumpy for the grade! Dec 1, 2014
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.9
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.9
Great lead for beginner climber Nov 18, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Thanks Ryan, that's more like it! I've done that route many times over the years just wasn't going through the trouble of cross referencing a guidebook.

This is a perfect example of a lousy description (the original). As you noted, who skips describing one of the most obvious features on the wall that directly corresponds with the route in question?

Gack, thanks for pumping it upÂ….somehow I fear you have hundreds more to do for the ORG database. Or if you get froggy the JT database is just as bad with 90% of the descriptions ending in "standard rack". Dec 2, 2013
Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
  5.9
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
  5.9
Heart of the Sun is located on the left side of the Great Wall of China, just to the right of Child of Light (which starts on top of a prominent boulder). The route follows positive holds on a pumpy, vertical face. To locate the route, look for a sort of "cave" with a round orb in it about 40 feet off the deck. Heart of the sun climbs just to the right of this.

Dec 2, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Agreed Ryan! A perfect opportunity for someone with actual knowledge of the route to beef up the description. As it is, I don't believe I've ever done "Heart of the Sun" and from my comments above was actually trying to figure out what was what.

There is little doubt that my route entries could use some finesse and greater detail but I, like many at least attempt to put in some usable information into the data base for others to reference. Not just a bookmark that is now locked out by the MP user unless taken to an Admin to adjust.

The irritation of the severely poor route entries is taking it's toll on me. YMMV. Dec 1, 2013
Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
  5.9
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
  5.9
Susan, what a perfect opportunity to improve upon the route description in the comments... Dec 1, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
This is a poor entry of this route into the database. I thought I could figure out what was what using MP database but alas, I cannot and need to go grab a guidebook. Uggh! Nov 8, 2012
Uhliebrah  
 
Great 5.9 climb, big holds, easy feet but really fun route! Nov 16, 2011
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
Agreed. Sustained 5.9. excellent route. Dec 14, 2007
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.9
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.9
Sustained climbing, but the holds are all there. May 30, 2007