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Routes in Solarium

Aberration S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Black Hole S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direchossimo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flux Capacitor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flux Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Focus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Morning Wood S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Russian Meteors S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sabado Gigante S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sendero Luminoso S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shocker S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Snake Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Split Descison S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Static Cling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernova S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Venom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Joe Rousek & Robert Parker - 1990
Page Views: 7,634 total, 57/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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108 Opinions

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Description

This fun arete climb offers great position and a challenging surprise at the end. It takes the main arete of the Solarium buttress. Climb an easy and completely unprotected ramp up and left towards the arete, or head up the direct start (which has one bolt) at 5.10b. The direct start is nicer but it forces your belayer to stand in an annoyingly loose slope of scree. Exercise caution making the first clip if doing the direct start, and falling before clipping the next bolt, from either start, would be very, very bad. But don't worry; the climbing is easy. Continue up the face just right of the arete until you move left around the arete to start climbing the fun slab where the climb changes character unexpectedly!

Protection

A dozen draws or so. A 70m rope allows a margin of safety; it might not be possible to lower off with a 60m if the draws are all clipped (a 60m is sufficient for rapping, however).
Brant Hysell
Huntington Beach, CA
 
Brant Hysell   Huntington Beach, CA
 
I enjoyed the route quite a bit and it definitely has an airy feeling to it. Make sure to bring long draws for the clip down low and the one around the arete(bolt 7 or so).

I found a set of draws and a hat at the bottom this past weekend. Message me the description of either and I will gladly send them your way. Dec 8, 2016
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
One day someone will pull a rock on the not-so-solid run out section and deck. Overall it's overrated IMHO, slab is fun but it's short and before that you just pull on hollow flakes all the way up... May 26, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b PG13
Pretty amazing that such a wild and aesthetic feature has a 5.10 running right up it- and a great climb at that.

I also noticed the old clips were broken (i think this was done intentionally so people would use the new mussys instead of the old ones)- but damn if they weren't sharp and hanging down near the rope when threaded through the new mussys. I've noticed this is something common in the gorge when those types of clips are replaced with mussys and to be honest, I'd really like to see a better replacement effort- especially on this route. Jan 5, 2015
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
Great climb. Slab crux definitely caught me off guard despite knowing it was coming.

Condition report: As of 6/23/2013 there are two new mussies in relatively good shape (although some people are obviously lowering/TR'ing on them), one of the old worn out mussies, and one of the old mussies, completely broken! Only half of the hook, and the gate remain.

I rapped off the new mussies without issue, but it would probably be good if someone cleans the broken mussy at some point.. Jun 25, 2013
AWinters
NH
  5.10b
AWinters   NH  
  5.10b
Anchors have been replaced and are BOMB- 4 mussies on 2 hangers. There's a real nice belay platform at the base now also Jan 25, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10b
This is a really great route that gives you nearly sustained .10 climbing up the headwall and just as you think you're about done you get the surprise. Even when you know it's coming you think, ahh crap.

I've climbed a bunch in a variety of places and I can't think of another route that has the same type of finish. It's unique in that sense.

As for being runout. I don't think so, where the bolt placements are spaced down low is significantly easier climbing across a ledge.

Incidentally, I've lowered from from the lead using a 60m to the right with no problem. A 70m gives you plenty of cord to lower directly into the sloping dirt. Jun 1, 2008
Tavis Ricksecker  
5.10b
This route really should not receive the R rating. I always understood an "R" to mean that the climb was runout or bad pro AT THE CRUX and a fall FROM THE CRUX would likely result in injury. In the case of Sendero, the 10b crux is well protected. It is only the beginning 5.7 moves that are runout, but they are surely a cakewalk compared to the harder climbing near the top of this great pitch.

Also, the real Sendero Luminoso is not a legitimate communist party but a group of fanatic Maoist radicals that regularly engages in kidnapping and murder of local politicians and anyone else who stands in their way. Jul 4, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10b
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10b
This and Whacked Scenario might be my favorite routes that I've done in the gorge. Also, I have lowered off with a 60 and cleaned draws on the way down. I had to swing to the right at the bottom, then boulder up to retrieve the first draw. No big deal. But you can't lower and then let a partner tr through the qds from below. Jan 6, 2007
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.10b PG13
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.10b PG13
Really fun route! A 60m will just barely get you down on rappel. It will NOT work to lower thru the draws. Also, the anchors at the top are in horrible condition. I would suggest rappelling from the rings instead of lowering... Dec 12, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
Yet another great ORG route that comes highly recommended. The crux is at the very top, as mentioned, and certainly will grab your attention with the abrupt and complete change of climbing style required to reach the anchors.

The name Sendero Luminoso means "shining path" in Spanish and is a reference to the communist party of Peru. Oct 31, 2006