Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tom Herbert, Sean Greer & Todd Vogel, June 1990
Page Views: 7,468 total · 49/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

154 Opinions

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details


One of the classic Tom Herbert "E" series, this is an immensely popular climb. The climb starts with technical, slick edging slowly turning into steeper pumpy edging and finally jugs towards the top. Most people head out left at the last bolt, but its possible to finish straight up on pockets. Very high quality classic.


8 quickdraws to mussy hooks


Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
So Mike Newheart, all ticked off at our whiney indecision, jumps on the wall literally tearing at the rock from the bowels of the earth, it's a sight to see, the toughest guy I ever met, at his toughest. The crux spits him off more than once. He lowers off mumbling "man, that's the hardest 10a I've ever been on".... Oct 19, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
One of the best climbs at Owens. Crimpy and Classic!!! Dec 28, 2006
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
Great photo Russ. Jan 30, 2009
Rick D
Reno, NV
Rick D   Reno, NV
So much fun! Super sustained. Mar 28, 2009
Callie Rennison
Boulder, Colorado
Callie Rennison   Boulder, Colorado
I love this route! Awesome! Aug 16, 2009
Eric Schnepel
Eric Schnepel   Portland
Good and fun 5.11 climbing all the way up. Decent rest stances can be found almost at will. Mar 19, 2011
Nikki S
Cleveland, Ohio
Nikki S   Cleveland, Ohio
Fun the whole way! Crimpy and balancey at the bottom--especially for short people; juggy (relatively) and pumpy at the top. I recommend going straight up (slightly right, actually) for more fun. One of my favorite routes anywhere. Feb 18, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Don't cheat yourself by climbing out left by the last bolt. It's more fun and sustained to climb direct! Mar 31, 2013
another Chad
another Chad  
Great climb. Reminded me a bit of Smith Rock's Heinous Cling, though easier and less scary.

Chad Jun 12, 2015
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
Got on this climb again today for the first time in a few years.

It is indeed excellent.

Harder than Photon Torpedo by a considerable margin in my opinion.

Oh, and the cheater stump is gone. Nov 9, 2015
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
One of the must do's in Owens. Probably one of the best 5.11 face climbs I've done. Go do it Oct 24, 2016