Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Todd Vogel, Fred Lifton & Chris Iverson, 1989
Page Views: 2,421 total · 20/month
Shared By: AWinters on Feb 19, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

The great finger and handcrack on and just left of the arete.

Start off with a nice ergonomic and rounded finger crack to multiple rests on good face holds. Continue up the gradually widening crack with great jams, into wide hands with good features in the back. After the crack climb past 3 bolts on the arete to the anchor.

The crux is perhaps the first 20 feet, then it mellows out...

Easily top-roped from the 'Nirvana' anchors. It would be a shame to climb 'Nirvana' and not try it.

Location

Left-side of the Social Platform, just right of 'Nirvana'.

Protection

Standard rack to 4".

Photos

jonathan howland
San Francisco
  5.10+
jonathan howland   San Francisco
  5.10+
Lewis's guide gives this a 10d; the previous edition had it at 10c. I'll call it hard 5.10 through the first twenty feet, not .10b per this posting, and in any case v. worthy. The route protects well on all cams (v. small through 2.5 inches) + draws for the three bolts on the arete. Apr 16, 2009
Greg Barnes
  5.10d
Greg Barnes  
  5.10d
This went back and forth between 10d and 10c in previous Gorge guides. I go with 10d - only a few moves, but off balance and powerful. Easier for big fingers. Oct 27, 2009
213blc
THA WEST COAST
  5.10c
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  5.10c
Very fun climb. The anchors, however, are in dreadful need of Mussy hooks or some sort of new setup (one cold shut is loose and very worn, the other is worn). Be careful! Apr 3, 2012
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10+
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10+
How strong are open shuts that are worn almost half through? Might be rolling the dice on this one. Feb 18, 2014
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10+
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10+
Thanks Dan!


Mar 28, 2015
Blurie .
San Diego, Ca
 
Blurie .   San Diego, Ca
 
Surprisingly fun crack climbing for the gorge, good jams n locks, don't miss it if you want to add some variety to your day!! TR from nirvana works. Dec 31, 2017