Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Fred Berman & Bruce Lella - July, 1991
Page Views: 8,963 total · 59/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details


From Chocolate to Morphine is a wonderful name for this climb -- the pump escalates in precisely that fashion. Climb a flake that sits at the base of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower, then up into the crack in the corner -- reaching right to clip bolts. Eventually step right and shake out at a great horizontal below the roof. Pull this roof on a questionable jug, and bust straight up the overhanging, blunt arete. After a few clips, cut directly left around the arete (there's chalk everywhere around here making this a tough onsight if the climb is near one's limit), and continue up past a couple more clips to an anchor.


15 or so draws. A 70m rope - 60m ropes come up short.
Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
The quintessential owens jug haul. Jan 12, 2007
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
A good candidate for that first Gorge 11d, IMO. I don't remember any stopper moves at all. Another excellent first 11d is "Sex" on Holy Trinity. Mar 12, 2008
A 60 will work, but be super heads-up. Knot the end. Jul 20, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Blew my onsight after following the chalk stains too high after the roof before pulling around the arete to the left. Awesome juggy/endurance sport route. Jan 30, 2011
Eric Schnepel
Eric Schnepel   Portland
A little pumpy, but good rests can be found. There are probably 4 holds that aren't jugs on the entire route, but they come right at the end. Easy to be lead astray by dummy holds up top. Stay to the left of the roofs. Mar 19, 2011
trying hard
Sierra East Side
trying hard   Sierra East Side
Seems that in the last year someone has replaced the old style hangers on this route, and added a new fixed chain draw above the first roof with a fancy fixe beaner on it. Anyone know who is to thank for this upgrade?

I have to admit I am saddened the old school hangers were stripped off the route that gave it some more of that rich east side character. The addition of the fixed chain makes cleaning to route much easier, nice addition.

This is one of the top 5 best routes in the gorge. A must do. Nov 1, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Best 11d in the Gorge.

With continuously fun movement, aesthetic position, and long character, this climb typifies all that is fun and scenic about the Owens River Gorge. Do it! Nov 26, 2012
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
There's some choss, but it's still a classic. Apr 1, 2013
Patrick Martinez
Chandler, AZ
Patrick Martinez   Chandler, AZ
As of 8/30, the bolt before the roof (right before the chained permadraw) is sticking pretty far out, making for a pretty ugly spinner. Luckily the clips before and after are pretty close, but I wouldn't wanna whip on it. Sep 3, 2014
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
A fine route- very fun in general, and very doable for a flash/onsight attempt, imho.

Couple of notes in general:

1) Anchor condition- if you put your own draws on this thing, make sure you do not clip them into the hangers- there are several stud bolts sticking out near the chains that will rub on your draws. I ended up using the mussys against my preference, since it was the only safe way to run a TR through the existing anchor setup. This seems to be a common theme at Owens- many anchors I come to are nice and shiny, but there are alot of studs sticking out, mangled fixe clips, etc. While I appreciate the ASCA volunteers work, as someone who spends alot of time replacing and chopping old bolts, the back-end work in this area could use some improvement.

2) Extend the draw on the bolt before the chain draw, please. If you don't, counter-clockwise action could cause that bolt to loosen again. Truthfully, that bolt is barely needed as it is.

3) IMHO, this route is easier (and an easier onsight) than it's neighbor, LaLaLand. 5.11c at most for this one, I think. Feb 2, 2015