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California
> Eastern Sierra
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Central Gorge
> Faulty Tower
From Chocolate to Morphine
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 189
votes
Routes in Faulty Tower
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Baby Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chocolateland Variation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cottage Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crash Landing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crybaby S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Desert Storm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Desire S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Double Take S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fender Strat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Finger Food S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fledged S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Forkash & Riches S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Falling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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From Chocolate to Chossman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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From Chocolate to Morphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hang A Louie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hill's Little Hill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Just Desserts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lalaland S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Over the Top S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Perched S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sly Little Fart Blaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Solito S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stradivarius S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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What's Its Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 37.51367, -118.57129 |
| FA: | Fred Berman & Bruce Lella - July, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 13,883 total · 60/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
From Chocolate to Morphine is a wonderful name for this climb -- the pump escalates in precisely that fashion. Climb a flake that sits at the base of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower, then up into the crack in the corner -- reaching right to clip bolts. Eventually step right and shake out at a great horizontal below the roof. Pull this roof on a questionable jug, and bust straight up the overhanging, blunt arete. After a few clips, cut directly left around the arete (there's chalk everywhere around here making this a tough onsight if the climb is near one's limit), and continue up past a couple more clips to an anchor.
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