Type: Sport, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Fred Berman & Bruce Lella - July, 1991
Page Views: 13,345 total · 63/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Warning Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

From Chocolate to Morphine is a wonderful name for this climb -- the pump escalates in precisely that fashion. Climb a flake that sits at the base of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower, then up into the crack in the corner -- reaching right to clip bolts. Eventually step right and shake out at a great horizontal below the roof. Pull this roof on a questionable jug, and bust straight up the overhanging, blunt arete. After a few clips, cut directly left around the arete (there's chalk everywhere around here making this a tough onsight if the climb is near one's limit), and continue up past a couple more clips to an anchor.

Protection Suggest change

15 or so draws. A 70m rope - 60m ropes come up short.

If you are concerned with a much easier, but possibly dangerous runout low on the route, bring a #4 Camalot to protect getting to the third bolt.