Type: Trad
FA: Phil Green, Wendy Borgerd, 7/1989. Bolts added by Marty Lewis.
Page Views: 1,282 total · 9/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Down and left of "Lalaland" is a steep jamcrack, to the right of an arete.
Fun jamming, up this crack leads to a face with three bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Protection

Draws and pro to 2.5".

Photos

I feel this is a strong candidate for best 5.8 in the ORG, primarily because of the great handjams at the bottom. Suprised others haven't given it more stars. Jan 27, 2007
I agree with Dave. A great great and bold climber once commented to me that "if Stradivarius was in the Tetons their would be a book written about it." Apr 20, 2007
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.8
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.8
Absolutely great initial crack. Beautiful hand jams and steep. The only dowfall is the shortness of the crack. The face above is fun enough. Well spaced bolts, but easy. May 24, 2012
David Gibbs
Ottawa, ON
 
David Gibbs   Ottawa, ON
 
Felt like a 4* crack into a 1* face above. If there was more crack and less face, or if the climb just ended at the end of the crack, I think it would get a better rating. But, the crack section is great.

Wish I could give it 2.5*. Oct 13, 2013
Chris M
Hailey, ID
Chris M   Hailey, ID
10/4/18. Anchor report: the right bolt with the mussy hook was loose and pulled out of the sleeve easily by hand. We blew dust out of the sleeve and retightened it by hand, but it needs a wrench. The left bolt and the cold shut are in good condition. Oct 4, 2018 · Temporary Report