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Routes in Faulty Tower

Baby Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crash Landing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crybaby S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Take S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fender Strat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Food S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Forkash & Riches S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
From Chocolate to Chossman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
From Chocolate to Morphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang A Louie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hill's Little Hill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lalaland S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Over the Top S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perched S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sly Little Fart Blaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Solito S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stradivarius T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What's Its Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Yost, Steve Case
Page Views: 526 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Jan 24, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Located in the center of the shady North face of the Faulty Tower. Scramble up 3rd class terrain and lean out to clip the first bolt on the lip of the roof. Crank over the crux roof and then climb up on large, slopey holds to a juggy horizontal crack. head up and right on the horizontal and then continue straight up to the last bolt. At the last bolt cut hard left to an annoying anchor clip at a non-stance.

Protection

7 bolts to open shuts

Photos

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John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
Not a good route, and with the terrible belay stance, one wonders why it was bolted at all.

The second bolt is literally underneath the jug you really want to use- I found it near impossible to not rest my palm on the hanger while clipping. Not sure how solid the rock is at owens, but i'd never drill a bolt that shallow in sandstone.

The last bolt is...really far to the right, and while you want to clip it, it may be better not to? I'm not sure. Frankly, the anchor should probably be where the last bolt is, as getting to the anchor is goofy and not much fun.

All in all, my least favorite route i've done in the gorge. Feb 2, 2015
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
 
In regards to the "new anchor," the right hanger is spinning and the bolt is poking out a bit, the rock looks a little eroded behind the left hanger, maybe from when it was drilled. The route has a nice location, fun moves. Jan 23, 2014
Worn, open shuts have been replaced with new stainless steel bolts and mussy hooks. Paid for with donations collected at Wilson's Eastside and the Rubber Room. Mar 21, 2012
Kris Spevak  
 
Fun move between first and second bolt; then nice climbing with straightforward moves until the anchor. I am 5'7" and could not clip the anchors from the last semi-decent stance-so the moves here were much harder than 10b for me. Jun 2, 2010