Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Faulty Tower

Baby Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crash Landing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crybaby S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Take S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fender Strat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Food S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Forkash & Riches S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
From Chocolate to Chossman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
From Chocolate to Morphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang A Louie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hill's Little Hill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lalaland S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Over the Top S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perched S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sly Little Fart Blaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Solito S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stradivarius T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What's Its Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tom Herbert & Tony Puppo 11/89
Page Views: 1,439 total, 10/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 1, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


44 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Even though it's been upgraded, the bouldery start of this immaculate gem still seems hard.
Works up a north facing panel of perfect rock on small edges next to an arete. If only it were longer.

Location

A little bit uphill from the base of From Chocolate ..., just about where the trail deteriorates.

Protection

5 bolts
Ellis L
Chico, CA
 
Ellis L   Chico, CA
 
"Crash landing" is what it is... worth doing! Perfect rock creates an engaging opening sequence, followed by more great crimps and movement. Mar 8, 2017
another Chad
  5.11a
another Chad  
  5.11a
The best crimps I've ever felt. Awesome little climb.

Chad Jun 12, 2015
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Fun stuff. Intimidating and looks small from the base but likely will be pleasantly surprised. Great rock, great edges... reminds me of limestone edge climbing. Nov 7, 2014
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.11a
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.11a
Probably a little soft for 11a, but either way a fun little route. Nov 11, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Wish things were longer? Once you hit the anchors of Crash Landing, clip in a looong sling, traverse about fifteen feet right, join Perched (5.10d) at the roof, and finish at the chains of Perched. A big pitch, to be sure. It's likely a 60m would work, but we used a 70. Better safe than sorry. Nov 26, 2012
Brayne Varner
Eureka, Ca
Brayne Varner   Eureka, Ca
One of the best routes in the Gorge, a ladder of perfect edges. I can see that a gym-rat might think this is .11a. (no offense to gym-rats) Nov 19, 2011
Eric Schnepel
Portland
 
Eric Schnepel   Portland
 
Pretty fun thin face moves. The challenges end quickly however. Would be a really good first 5.11 for the technically oriented climber. Mar 19, 2011
AWinters
NH
  5.10+
AWinters   NH  
  5.10+
gotta say that original rating seems right on Sep 17, 2009
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.10d
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.10d
Awesome rock, great moves. A sweet little mini-route. Easy for 11a. Wasn't it originally rated as 10d? Mar 12, 2008
Get ready to crimp! Great thin face moves, but short lived... Jul 4, 2007