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Routes in Faulty Tower

Baby Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crash Landing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crybaby S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Take S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fender Strat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Food S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Forkash & Riches S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
From Chocolate to Chossman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
From Chocolate to Morphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang A Louie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hill's Little Hill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lalaland S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Over the Top S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perched S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sly Little Fart Blaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Solito S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stradivarius T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What's Its Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: FA: Tom Herbert, 4/91, TD.
Page Views: 1,447 total, 11/month
Shared By: Kevin Friedrich on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Desert Storm requires an approach via Stradivarius or Fender Strat (Both excellent lines on their own) but despite it being "out of the way" is, in my opinion, one of the best .12 pitches in the gorge. The pitch ascends a beautiful golden face with big exposure and incredibly sustained moves on crimps and small pockets. Though the route is only 6 bolts long, when you look to place your feet you feel that you are much higher off the deck as all you can see is the river, and not the small tower on which the belay for the route is situated. The rock on the route is much more coarse then other rock found in the ORG and climbs more like the Sad Boulders. I feel the only reason this route is not 5 stars is because it has not received much traffic and is relatively short by gorge standards.

Location

Desert Storm can be approached via Stradivarius (8) or Fender Strat (10a), or Sly Little Fart Blaster (11d, which finishes at the shuts for Strad. All these approach routes make great warm-up for Desert Storm. It is important to note that a chain belay for Desert Storm exist directly on top of the tower, about 10 feet past the shuts for Strad. or Fender. This belay is much more comfy then attempting to belay from the shuts for Fender or Strad. After lowering off desert Storm, rapp down whatever route you used to approach the top of the pillar.

Protection

The pro is 6 bolts, there are cold shuts at the top, and there's a chain belay on top of the tower.

Photos

Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12a
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12a
There's some choss but it still shines. Apr 1, 2013
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Kyle Townsend
Oakland, CA
Kyle Townsend   Oakland, CA
I normally don't get into online debates, but I have to address the previous comment.

James, I have to say it grinds my gears for you to post negative commentary about the Gorge. The Earth offers us many different rock types, each of which is unique and lends itself to its own characteristic features and movement aesthetic. Not everything can be Valley Granite. The joy of rock climbing manifests in many ways: exposure, position, movement, scenery, rock quality, the aesthetic of the line, etc. and all of these traits have their respective value. The gorge is a sport climber's paradise, with amazing features, long sustained routes, extraordinary route density, aesthetic lines, year-round climbing season, relative ease of access, and every possible sun aspect within a stone's throw, making shade or sun a choice with which the climber is empowered. Not to mention well over 300 days of sunshine every year. Come on, man, give it some credit. Sep 15, 2012
I'd give this route five stars if...it was on better rock, like granite, had a better approach, like 15 pitches of stellar cracks, and was located somewhere better, like a hundred miles east on the side of el Cap. Feb 3, 2012
Jeff Hebert
Seattle, WA
 
Jeff Hebert   Seattle, WA
 
This was a great route with good holds and fun movement throughout. There was almost no chalk on the route when I did it and the hardest part was figuring out what to reach for. Jun 24, 2010
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12a
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12a
Spectacular climb. Not super technical like many of the harder climbs in the Gorge. Steep pocket and edge pulling with wild exposure. Mar 12, 2008
426
426  
Superb position and moves atypical of ORG... Mar 27, 2007