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Routes in Faulty Tower

Baby Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crash Landing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crybaby S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Take S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fender Strat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Food S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Forkash & Riches S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
From Chocolate to Chossman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
From Chocolate to Morphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang A Louie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hill's Little Hill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lalaland S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Over the Top S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perched S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sly Little Fart Blaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Solito S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stradivarius T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What's Its Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Peter Croft, Marty Lewis, & Dayle Mazzarella - September, 1999
Page Views: 2,002 total, 15/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

Begin just left of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower at a nice looking finger crack. Ascend this to a high first clip (an Alien is useful to protect this), and then eventually head up the face to the right. Up higher the climb enters a steep right facing dihedral system that has a definite crux which can be negotiated with creative stemming.

Protection

15 or so draws. A 70m rope - 60m ropes come up short.
Simon W
Nowhere Land
 
Simon W   Nowhere Land
 
This thing is truly excellent.

Still haven't done Santana or Flex your head, but both of those routes have a lot to live up to to unseat this as best 11c in my mind..

Caldera has more wild positioning pulling on to the arete, but the start and finish of this climb are much better. (The perfect hands section at the start of Caldera is fun but the fingers section on this route is more interesting/technical.) Nov 11, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c/d
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c/d
Definitely do not need any gear on this one- you can easily stick clip the second bolt if the first is too low for your liking.

IMHO, this route is harder than its neighbor, but just as good. Pretty amazing chunk of rock to produce two really long, amazing lines like that.

Word to the wise- extend the 2nd and 3rd draws after the roof to reduce drag. I used 24" runners and was pretty happy overall. A longish draw on the first bolt over the roof helps too. Feb 2, 2015
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
As shown in picture, there appears to be a newer bolt on this climb making trad protection pretty unnecessary for all but the most timid. Feb 7, 2011