Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 40 ft (12 m)|
|FA:||Tom Herbert, 1989|
|Page Views:||839 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||Luke EF on Feb 17, 2020|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Short but aesthetic line up a steep, blank face next to Crybaby. Stick clip mandatory.
The climb starts with an extremely thin boulder on tiny, sharp crimps and mediocre feet to the first bolt. The latest guidebook calls this a V9. There are lots of options for hands, and most of them are bad. It looks like people have started right off the ground or left off some cheater stones - I went left.
After the first bolt, the climbing eases up significantly, with fun, long moves on mostly good holds and some good stances to shake midway. There is one last difficult move between the third and fourth bolts, but if you've gotten through the boulder at the bottom this should be a breeze. The climb ends with easy moves to the anchors below the roof.
I was told this was a 13a before getting on, but after flailing on the bottom boulder problem, I asked for the latest guidebook and found it listed as 13d. The grade is entirely based on the difficulty of getting to the first bolt, so your experience may vary.