All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > Faulty Tower

Desire

Name: Desire
Rating: 2.3

5.13d YDS 8b French 31 Ewbanks X UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British

Routes in Faulty Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	Baby Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chocolateland Variation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cottage Cheese S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Crash Landing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Crybaby S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Desert Storm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Desire S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Double Take S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fender Strat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Finger Food S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Forkash & Riches S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Free Falling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	From Chocolate to Chossman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	From Chocolate to Morphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hang A Louie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hill's Little Hill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Just Desserts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Lalaland S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Over the Top S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Perched S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Sly Little Fart Blaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Solito S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Stradivarius S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	What's Its Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA:	Tom Herbert, 1989
Page Views:	1,346 total · 26/month
Shared By:	Luke EF on Feb 17, 2020
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.

1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.

Description

Short but aesthetic line up a steep, blank face next to Crybaby. Stick clip mandatory.

The climb starts with an extremely thin boulder on tiny, sharp crimps and mediocre feet to the first bolt. The guidebook calls this a V9. There are lots of options for hands, and most of them are bad. It looks like people have started right off the ground or left off some cheater stones - I went left.

After the first bolt, the climbing eases up significantly, with fun, long moves on mostly good holds and some good stances to shake midway. The climb ends with easy moves from the last bolt to the anchors below the roof.

The latest guidebook has this route listed as 13d. The grade is entirely based on the difficulty of getting to the first bolt, so your experience may vary.