All Locations > California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge

Faulty Tower Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Faulty Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	Baby Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chocolateland Variation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cottage Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Crash Landing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Crybaby S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Desert Storm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Desire S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Double Take S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fender Strat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Finger Food S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Forkash & Riches S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Free Falling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	From Chocolate to Chossman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	From Chocolate to Morphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hang A Louie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hill's Little Hill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Just Desserts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Lalaland S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Over the Top S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Perched S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Sly Little Fart Blaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Solito S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Stradivarius S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	What's Its Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	5,359 ft	1,633 m
GPS:	37.51367, -118.57129 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	44,539 total · 198/month
Shared By:	david goldstein on Aug 1, 2006
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.

1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.

Description

This east facing wall, a couple of minutes up river from Warm Up Wall is generally shady and has worthwhile climbs in a wide range of grades. The two must do climbs are the partnered stretcher hard 11s, Lalaland and From Chocolate to Morphine which seem to be developing a following. If you're looking to get off the beaten path without having to go to much trouble, FT's left side has an upper tier whose routes see little traffic (approach pitch required).

Route order, from left to right:

Solito ** 10c 5 bolts to anchors

For the following 3, approach via easy 5th class to ledge:

Baby Duck *** 11b 6 bolts to anchors
Free Falling *** 11d 6 bolts to anchors
Open Project ? 1 bolt

Forkash and Riches ** 12a 5 bolts to anchors
Finger Food * 10d 4 bolts to anchors
Fender Strat **** 10a 9 bolts to anchors
Sly Little Fart Blaster 11d 8 bolts to anchors
Stradivarius **** 8 3 bolts, gear to 2.5" to anchors

Approach via Fender Strat or Stradivarius:

Desert Storm **** 12a 6 bolts to anchors

Slot Machine * 10a 2 bolts, gear to 2" to rap station
Lalaland ***** 11c 12 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Morph. ***** 11d 13 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Choss. ** 9 6 bolts to anchors
Ballet Recital poor 10b Gear to 3.5" to one bolt anchor
Crybaby **** 12c 7 bolts to anchors
Desire ** 13a 4 bolts, stick clip, anchors
Crash Landing *** 11a 5 bolts to anchors
Project Cont. of Crash Landing, 5 bolts
Perched **** 10d 9 bolts to anchors
What's its Face *** 10b 7 bolts to anchors
Double Take * 8 6 bolts, sporty, anchors

Getting There

From where the Central Gully approach meets the road, walk north/upriver. The first significant cliff on the west side is Faulty Towers.

24 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	Faulty Tower Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:	then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Faulty Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 54 ● Stradivarius Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 50 ● Hang A Louie Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 133 ● Fender Strat Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 75 ● What's Its Face Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 100 ● Perched Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 125 ● Crash Landing Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 91 ● Over the Top Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 149 ● Lalaland Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 14 ● Hill's Little Hill Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 183 ● From Chocolate to Morphine Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 6 ● Cottage Cheese Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 19 ● Chocolateland Variation Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 35 ● Desert Storm Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 15 ● Just Desserts Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 48 ● Crybaby Sport