Elevation: 5,359 ft
GPS: 37.514, -118.571 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,582 total · 192/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 1, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

This east facing wall, a couple of minutes up river from Warm Up Wall is generally shady and has worthwhile climbs in a wide range of grades. The two must do climbs are the partnered stretcher hard 11s, Lalaland and From Chocolate to Morphine which seem to be developing a following. If you're looking to get off the beaten path without having to go to much trouble, FT's left side has an upper tier whose routes see little traffic (approach pitch required).

Route order, from left to right:

Solito ** 10c 5 bolts to anchors

For the following 3, approach via easy 5th class to ledge:

Baby Duck *** 11b 6 bolts to anchors
Free Falling *** 11d 6 bolts to anchors
Open Project ? 1 bolt

Forkash and Riches ** 12a 5 bolts to anchors
Finger Food * 10d 4 bolts to anchors
Fender Strat **** 10a 9 bolts to anchors
Sly Little Fart Blaster 11d 8 bolts to anchors
Stradivarius **** 8 3 bolts, gear to 2.5" to anchors

Approach via Fender Strat or Stradivarius:

Desert Storm **** 12a 6 bolts to anchors

Slot Machine * 10a 2 bolts, gear to 2" to rap station
Lalaland ***** 11c 12 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Morph. ***** 11d 13 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Choss. ** 9 6 bolts to anchors
Ballet Recital poor 10b Gear to 3.5" to one bolt anchor
Crybaby **** 12c 7 bolts to anchors
Desire ** 13a 4 bolts, stick clip, anchors
Crash Landing *** 11a 5 bolts to anchors
Project Cont. of Crash Landing, 5 bolts
Perched **** 10d 9 bolts to anchors
What's its Face *** 10b 7 bolts to anchors
Double Take * 8 6 bolts, sporty, anchors

Getting There

From where the Central Gully approach meets the road, walk north/upriver. The first significant cliff on the west side is Faulty Towers.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: Faulty Tower Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Faulty Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
Stradivarius
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Hang A Louie
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 96
Fender Strat
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 62
What's Its Face
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 80
Perched
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 89
Crash Landing
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 53
Over the Top
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 105
Lalaland
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Hill's Little Hill
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 145
From Chocolate to Morphine
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Chocolateland Variation
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 28
Desert Storm
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 37
Crybaby
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 3
Desire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stradivarius
 44
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hang A Louie
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fender Strat
 96
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
What's Its Face
 62
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Perched
 80
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Crash Landing
 89
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Over the Top
 53
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lalaland
 105
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hill's Little Hill
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
From Chocolate to Morphine
 145
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Chocolateland Variation
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Desert Storm
 28
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Crybaby
 37
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Desire
 3
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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