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Routes in Faulty Tower

Baby Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crash Landing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crybaby S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Take S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fender Strat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Food S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Forkash & Riches S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
From Chocolate to Chossman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
From Chocolate to Morphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang A Louie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hill's Little Hill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lalaland S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Over the Top S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perched S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sly Little Fart Blaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Solito S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stradivarius T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What's Its Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 5,359 ft
GPS: 37.514, -118.571 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 1, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This east facing wall, a couple of minutes up river from Warm Up Wall is generally shady and has worthwhile climbs in a wide range of grades. The two must do climbs are the partnered stretcher hard 11s, Lalaland and From Chocolate to Morphine which seem to be developing a following. If you're looking to get off the beaten path without having to go to much trouble, FT's left side has an upper tier whose routes see little traffic (approach pitch required).

Route order, from left to right:

Solito ** 10c 5 bolts to anchors

For the following 3, approach via easy 5th class to ledge:

Baby Duck *** 11b 6 bolts to anchors
Free Falling *** 11d 6 bolts to anchors
Open Project ? 1 bolt

Forkash and Riches ** 12a 5 bolts to anchors
Finger Food * 10d 4 bolts to anchors
Fender Strat **** 10a 9 bolts to anchors
Sly Little Fart Blaster 11d 8 bolts to anchors
Stradivarius **** 8 3 bolts, gear to 2.5" to anchors

Approach via Fender Strat or Stradivarius:

Desert Storm **** 12a 6 bolts to anchors

Slot Machine * 10a 2 bolts, gear to 2" to rap station
Lalaland ***** 11c 12 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Morph. ***** 11d 13 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Choss. ** 9 6 bolts to anchors
Ballet Recital poor 10b Gear to 3.5" to one bolt anchor
Crybaby **** 12c 7 bolts to anchors
Desire ** 13a 4 bolts, stick clip, anchors
Crash Landing *** 11a 5 bolts to anchors
Project Cont. of Crash Landing, 5 bolts
Perched **** 10d 9 bolts to anchors
What's its Face *** 10b 7 bolts to anchors
Double Take * 8 6 bolts, sporty, anchors

Getting There

From where the Central Gully approach meets the road, walk north/upriver. The first significant cliff on the west side is Faulty Towers.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Faulty Tower

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Kyle Townsend
Oakland, CA
Kyle Townsend   Oakland, CA
The route order for this area is pretty butchered.

From left to right:

Solito ** 10c 5 bolts to anchors

For the following 3, approach via easy 5th class to ledge:

Baby Duck *** 11b 6 bolts to anchors
Free Falling *** 11d 6 bolts to anchors
Open Project ? 1 bolt

Forkash and Riches ** 12a 5 bolts to anchors
Finger Food * 10d 4 bolts to anchors
Fender Strat **** 10a 9 bolts to anchors
Sly Little Fart Blaster 11d 8 bolts to anchors
Stradivarius **** 8 3 bolts, gear to 2.5" to anchors

Approach via Fender Strat or Stradivarius:

Desert Storm **** 12a 6 bolts to anchors

Slot Machine * 10a 2 bolts, gear to 2" to rap station
Lalaland ***** 11c 12 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Morph. ***** 11d 13 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Choss. ** 9 6 bolts to anchors
Ballet Recital poor 10b Gear to 3.5" to one bolt anchor
Crybaby **** 12c 7 bolts to anchors
Desire ** 13a 4 bolts, stick clip, anchors
Crash Landing *** 11a 5 bolts to anchors
Project Cont. of Crash Landing, 5 bolts
Perched **** 10d 9 bolts to anchors
What's its Face *** 10b 7 bolts to anchors
Double Take * 8 6 bolts, sporty, anchors

Please, those of you who have the time, re-sort the route accordingly. Any that I add, I will place in the best order I can.

Thanks!
Kyle T Sep 15, 2012

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