Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

This east facing wall, a couple of minutes up river from Warm Up Wall is generally shady and has worthwhile climbs in a wide range of grades. The two must do climbs are the partnered stretcher hard 11s, Lalaland and From Chocolate to Morphine which seem to be developing a following. If you're looking to get off the beaten path without having to go to much trouble, FT's left side has an upper tier whose routes see little traffic (approach pitch required).

Route order, from left to right:

Solito ** 10c 5 bolts to anchors

For the following 3, approach via easy 5th class to ledge:

Baby Duck *** 11b 6 bolts to anchors
Free Falling *** 11d 6 bolts to anchors
Open Project ? 1 bolt

Forkash and Riches ** 12a 5 bolts to anchors
Finger Food * 10d 4 bolts to anchors
Fender Strat **** 10a 9 bolts to anchors
Sly Little Fart Blaster 11d 8 bolts to anchors
Stradivarius **** 8 3 bolts, gear to 2.5" to anchors

Approach via Fender Strat or Stradivarius:

Desert Storm **** 12a 6 bolts to anchors

Slot Machine * 10a 2 bolts, gear to 2" to rap station
Lalaland ***** 11c 12 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Morph. ***** 11d 13 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Choss. ** 9 6 bolts to anchors
Ballet Recital poor 10b Gear to 3.5" to one bolt anchor
Crybaby **** 12c 7 bolts to anchors
Desire ** 13a 4 bolts, stick clip, anchors
Crash Landing *** 11a 5 bolts to anchors
Project Cont. of Crash Landing, 5 bolts
Perched **** 10d 9 bolts to anchors
What's its Face *** 10b 7 bolts to anchors
Double Take * 8 6 bolts, sporty, anchors

Getting There

From where the Central Gully approach meets the road, walk north/upriver. The first significant cliff on the west side is Faulty Towers.

19 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Faulty Tower Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Faulty Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Faulty Tower »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Kyle Townsend
Oakland, CA
Kyle Townsend   Oakland, CA
The route order for this area is pretty butchered.

From left to right:

Solito ** 10c 5 bolts to anchors

For the following 3, approach via easy 5th class to ledge:

Baby Duck *** 11b 6 bolts to anchors
Free Falling *** 11d 6 bolts to anchors
Open Project ? 1 bolt

Forkash and Riches ** 12a 5 bolts to anchors
Finger Food * 10d 4 bolts to anchors
Fender Strat **** 10a 9 bolts to anchors
Sly Little Fart Blaster 11d 8 bolts to anchors
Stradivarius **** 8 3 bolts, gear to 2.5" to anchors

Approach via Fender Strat or Stradivarius:

Desert Storm **** 12a 6 bolts to anchors

Slot Machine * 10a 2 bolts, gear to 2" to rap station
Lalaland ***** 11c 12 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Morph. ***** 11d 13 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Choss. ** 9 6 bolts to anchors
Ballet Recital poor 10b Gear to 3.5" to one bolt anchor
Crybaby **** 12c 7 bolts to anchors
Desire ** 13a 4 bolts, stick clip, anchors
Crash Landing *** 11a 5 bolts to anchors
Project Cont. of Crash Landing, 5 bolts
Perched **** 10d 9 bolts to anchors
What's its Face *** 10b 7 bolts to anchors
Double Take * 8 6 bolts, sporty, anchors

Please, those of you who have the time, re-sort the route accordingly. Any that I add, I will place in the best order I can.

Thanks!
Kyle T Sep 15, 2012