Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kevin Calder/Marty Lewis
Page Views: 6,867 total · 46/month
Shared By: sesser125 on Jan 22, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

117 Opinions

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details


A slabby ramp leading to a Yosemite like dihedral on beautiful grey rock. The slab is easier terrain with more widely spaced bolts. The crux is near the top of the route and incorporates liebacks and/or stemming. Holds are generally good throughout the entire route. This route is somewhat of an anomoly for the Gorge since it involves more technique opposed to mostly power, making it a climb to not miss.


This route is located about 150 ft left and around the corner from Flex Your Head (5.11c). The large dihedral about 60 ft up cannot be missed. Rappel or lower using one rope.


12 Bolts


Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
best .11b in the gorge. Jan 22, 2007
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
If you want a Yosemite-like corner, go do Jaws of Life (5.10b) at the Flavin Haven wall.

Also a warning, the anchors have been lowered off of a few too many times. The hooks are worn thin and are in need of replacement. Rappel is recommended. Feb 18, 2007
Right, well, ok then.. Definately one of the best 11's I've done in the gorge. Way more technical than the average 11b at the gorge, but also way less pumpy. Just get on it! Jul 4, 2007
Augsburg, Germany
HeatherB-Radley   Augsburg, Germany
awesome climb!! and it definitely makes you think! the crux is a little height dependent, so it was a lot trickier for the smaller people in our group. Oct 5, 2009
a key hold broke off while i was climbing it in January about the size of a baseball at the crux. I don't believe it changed the rating as there is still a good edge where the hold broke but I was quite surprised there was any loose rock on this route. Feb 1, 2010
LOL I took a whip off this thing just today.. broke a 1/2" edge off just after the crux... just when i thought i had it in the bag. Climbed back up and found that i didnt need that hold after all.. good thing too because it was now lying in the talus below! :) May 15, 2010
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
Good one! I know appreciate the Gorge.... Apr 12, 2011
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
absolutely classic Apr 14, 2011
Christian Shope   Tacoma
What is the route that starts just to the right of this one and tops out at 35+ as noted at the top of the route?
I climbed this mystery route months ago and can't stop thinking about it now that its snowing. The dihedral is just amazing. Dec 18, 2012
tahoemnts Schroeder
Truckee, California
tahoemnts Schroeder   Truckee, California
Awesome climb and did this yesterday for the first time. I'm 5'9" and couldn't figure out the crux move to the high left hold. I had to pull through. I'm open to any beta on this move. Thanks. Nov 10, 2014
Vlad S
Vlad S  
I climbed it a few years ago and at the crux 1/2 way up couldn't figure out the move you are asking about. Ended up doing some sketchy off-route climbing on the arete to the right to bypass this crux. Got on it a few days ago. Turns out you can do a very wide stem off the smooth right side of the upside-down V-slot. I'm 5'8" and that way the crux felt easy. Almost hands-free. My wife at 5'1" found it impossible, though. Dec 2, 2014
Weston L
If you are short (I'm about 5'6/5'7 and have short arms and legs), a dynamic move involving the two crimps at the crux, left edge, and a dish inside of the A-frame roof thing will get you to that triangular jug. I also have a low IQ, so there is probably a far more technical way to execute the move, but after endless tries that is what worked for me. Jan 12, 2015
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
Superb pitch- technical, long, sustained climbing with a very distinct crux right in the middle.

Best 5.11 in the Gorge? Well, if you're my height, its a contender for sure, but for those who are vertically challenged, I'd say its frustratingly difficult. Jan 27, 2015
I had to work at it to find a way to do it. I am 5'10" average wingspan and I could not crimp and reach up to the "jug" on the left. The hold directly above the crimps is a sloper. Don't even try dynamoing for it.

In the end I found a cool stemming way to do it which did not even use the jug on the left. Oct 5, 2015
Amazing route! It would be very possible to deck before reaching and clipping the second bolt, even though the climbing is quite easy.

Also, as of right now, the anchor situation is a cluster. There are two good mussies, but about five other superfluous and dangerously worn options. Take care up there. Dec 25, 2018