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Routes in Gotham City

Bat Angel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Boy Wonder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Flipper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Evil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flex Your Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grindrite S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In the Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Joker's Acid Bath S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kingsnake S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Machine Gun Jumblies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
More Than Just Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Freeze T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Penguin, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Poison Ivy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Riddler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
She's A Man, Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stronger Than Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superfly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tall Dollar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Transflexual S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
WollY bugger S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 543 total · 7/month
Shared By: 213blc on Mar 26, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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62 Opinions

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Double cracks in a cleft to start, move up and right through a short cruxy roof (look right for bolts). Pull through to steep postive holds and a few more bolts before moving out further right onto the exposed face. Enjoy the roar of the river as you move upwards and slightly left into a shallow dihedral that will take you to the chains. Clipping the anchor can be a touch awkward, get the feet up and find the money mini-jug. A loose block is found just below the anchors to the right, so stay left until you are above it. A very fun climb!

Location

Near the river at far climber's right of the bottom of Gotham City, just to the left of a deep chimney. Receives excellent light as the sun sets over the rim.

Protection

Bolts, mussy hook anchor.

Photos

Ken H
Granite, UT
 
Ken H   Granite, UT
 
The roof was awesome and with the prefect protection not the crux at all. The crux is moving out to the right and clipping the bolt on the traverse. If you are not solid at the grade you might take a bit of a whipper. Jun 6, 2012
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.10b
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.10b
A great route, but burly and technical for 10b. Best to be solid at the grade or else get ready to flail a bit. The route feels MUCH easier once you've figured out the moves, but stays sustained and keeps your attention until the end.

Bolt 7 (the bolt at the start of the traverse) can be difficult to clip. If you pull 2 more moves, you get to a great hold and can easily clip at your waist.

Watch out for looseness on the right after the traverse and again at the top. Nov 14, 2016
Jamie Silliman
Folsom, CA
 
Jamie Silliman   Folsom, CA
 
Before I was getting ready to jump on this route, a strong Canadian climber confirmed that it was "stout for the grade", as another poster mentioned. I was able to flash it on lead and I'm a 5.10 climber, so hard to say. I thought the route was really good overall. Confirm huge, loose rock at very top on the right. Oct 19, 2017
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.10c/d
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.10c/d
Found it noticeably harder than the first pitch of Superfly (10c).

Clipped bolt 3 (before roof move) blind.

Once you see the anchors and clip the last bolt on the route, you'll instinctively reach for the blocks to your right, but they are extremely loose. Jan 17, 2018
Acmesalute76
  5.10b
Acmesalute76  
  5.10b
What a fun route! I would say neither crux is harder than 10b, but they are both tricky to onsight. I whipped off the roof and then hung a lot trying to figure out the traverse, which my partner also struggled on. But like I said, the moves are about 10b, just difficult to read. The rest of the climbing is thoughtful and keeps you thinking all the way to the chains! Mar 12, 2018
BAd
  5.10c/d
BAd  
  5.10c/d
So, so good! But as some others have mentioned, this is WAY hard for 10b. In other words, it's not. Why can't we agree that it's under-rated? It's solid 10c, maybe 10d. That traverse--especially with making the clip--is damn hard. My partner thought it was right up there with "Warning Signs," which he did back in Nov. So be prepared for a fight on that traverse, and, yeah, if you blow it, you'll catch some air. Clean fall, however. The initial overhang is a blast and pretty classic 10b.

PS: Todd's advice about busting through the crux to then clip at your waist is probably a good idea. Jun 7, 2018

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