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Machine Gun Jumblies
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.2 from 143 votes
Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
FA: | Kevin Calder, Marty Lewis 6/1999 |
Page Views: | 4,362 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | john durr on Jul 3, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Machine Gun Jumblies is a long, well protected moderate face climb that continues above Double Flipper 5.9. Best to climb that route and keep on going up this route in one pitch.
Jumblies liebacks up the right facing corner above the Double Flipper anchor past a committing wide lie-back move between the first and second bolts. Above this the climbing eases back to 5.9/5.8.
Jumblies liebacks up the right facing corner above the Double Flipper anchor past a committing wide lie-back move between the first and second bolts. Above this the climbing eases back to 5.9/5.8.
Protection
14 bolts combining Double Flipper and Machine Gun Jumblies in one pitch. Lower off carefully with a 70 meter rope from the bolted 2nd anchor or use the Double Flipper bolted anchor to rap if your rope isn't long enough. Lowering from the 3rd set of anchors to the ground requires an 80m rope.
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