Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Ketron, Melkonian 2002
Page Views: 506 total · 3/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

The sort of obscure yet high quality pitch that makes the Gorge so worthwhile.

Starts with an easy, runout slab which takes you to a ledge at the base of a headwall. Clipping the first bolt on the headwall can be a production if you don't have a long reach. Once that bolt is clipped, launch into the headwall where you will find sustained, intricate climbing all the way to the anchors.

This route was unpublished until the 10th edition so as of this writing, still needs a little buffing.

Location

On the right side of Gotham City, two climbs to the right of the obvious chalk highway of Flex Your Head.

Protection

9 bolts. People shorter than 5'8" may want a supplemental piece to protect clipping the first bolt, though I don't know what that piece would be. Something in the 1" range.

Photos

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Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
Tried this route the other day and was sadly disappointed. I'm 5'10 and I still couldn't reach the mentioned bolt, very exposed and too reachy for me! My thought is, add another bolt on the slab below, because you are looking at going huge (decking?) if you blow the ultra reach clip. Supplemental gear would work, but it's more of a "who the F bolted this route?" Too bad, looks like a good climb. Apr 23, 2015