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Areas in Upper Gorge

All You Can Eat 2 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Basement, The 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Cracked Towers 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Dihedrals 6 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Failsafe Wall 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Flavin Haven 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Franklin's Tower 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Gorgeous Towers 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Gotham City 3 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Holy Trinity 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
ICBM Tower 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Joe's Garage 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Junior Area 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Lower Elbow Room 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Middle Elbow Room 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Mini Buttress 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sanitarium 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Trestle Wall 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Triple Play Cliff 1 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Underground Cliff 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Upper Elbow Room 1 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Warm Out Wall 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Description

The Upper Gorge is a little narrower and more winding than the other sections of the Gorge. The cliffs face a variety of directions allowing the ability to chase shade or sun. There are several popular cliffs including the Gorgeous Towers, Gotham City, the Dihedrals and the Flavin' Haven. There is a good amount of quality moderates in the Upper Gorge. The hard climber should check out the Trestle wall, Holy Trinity, Joe's Garage and Franklin's Tower.

Getting There

Use the Upper Gorge parking lot, hike down the upper power plant road for a couple minutes looking for a steep trail down to the right. This trail leads into a 3rd class gully and then down a steep rocky trail.

The page shows the coordinates for around the north parking area.

163 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Right Up
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gangsta Lean
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip 'n Slide
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cinderella
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giveaway
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lava Haul
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dr. Evil
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Machine Gun Jumblies
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gorgeous
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wacked Scenario
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Superfly
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pick Pocket
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
O.R.G.asam
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grindrite
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Knucko's Pride of the North
Sport
Step Right Up All You Can Eat 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Gangsta Lean Dihedrals 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Slip 'n Slide Lower Elbow Room 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Cinderella All You Can Eat 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Giveaway Gorgeous Towers 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lava Haul Flavin Haven 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dr. Evil Gotham City 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Machine Gun Jumblies Gotham City 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Gorgeous Gorgeous Towers 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wacked Scenario Gorgeous Towers 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Superfly Gotham City 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Pick Pocket Holy Trinity 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
O.R.G.asam Dihedrals 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Grindrite Gotham City 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Knucko's Pride of the North Gorgeous Towers 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper Gorge »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
The GPS coordinates for the Upper Gorge Parking turn-off are: 37 31.359 N, 118 34.601 W Mar 6, 2017
Well then don't be lazy and just hike down. It's not that far. Mar 1, 2015
Marcus Russi
New Haven, CT
Marcus Russi   New Haven, CT
Going off of what JeffL said, the rappel approach is kinda sketchy. My partner and I had a lot of trouble finding the chimney Jeff mentions, and before you get to it you have to scramble down a bunch of really loose sandy stuff. The chimney may well be 4th class but if you fall while downclimbing it, it would be gnarly. You definitely want a 70m for the rappel. I think it is likely that unless you've done this particular approach before, you would save time by just walking down the road. Dec 27, 2014
JeffL
Salt Lake City
JeffL   Salt Lake City
There is a rappel approach described in the book, here is the beta from personal experience. The hardest part is the first 3rd class scramble. There is a cairn marking the chimney or 4th class part just before the rappel bolts. We fixed a line and rapped the chimney with our packs, but down climbing and lowering packs would be ideal. Make sure you have a 60m rope to hit the ground, 70m is better for comfort as you can rappel past some scrambling. Watch for nettles as you pick up a trail and head upstream. One bridge you cross is nice, the other is broken Sep 29, 2012
JMo
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
i heard fines double if they catch you with hexes Apr 5, 2010
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Are you serious. WOW! That is pretty odd. Thx for letting me know. Jul 4, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
The LADWP enforces a strict "no tradding" rule in the Gorge as part of the use agreement. Bolts only! First offense is a confiscation of any hardware deemed "Trad" and a $50.00 fine payable to the ASCA. Jul 3, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Why is every perfectly protectable crack in this area bolted?? Jul 3, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
So much more natural than the Lower Gorge - quite a pleasant spot.

A cairn marks the start of the descent - look for it on the right as you walk down the road. Apr 15, 2008

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