Transflexual
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 37.52751, -118.57443 |
| FA: | Vic Lawson |
| Page Views: | 2,088 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Victor Lawson on Sep 25, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Extremely clean, semi-squeeze job. Big moves characterize this route. Very "bouldery" but not steep. Thin edges that lie far away from eachother with some tricky footwork. Clip first bolt of Flex Your Head (or not, easy to skip or unclip), then move left to big jug that propels you onto a blank looking face. 5 more bolts gets you through the crux, where you move right and join Flex Your Head for 3 or 4 more bolts (you can easily skip the first bolt you encounter after joining Flex because you are already over it anyway...) and the anchors. Really fun hard climbing.



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