Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Vic Lawson
Page Views: 972 total · 9/month
Shared By: Victor Lawson on Sep 25, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! High water release May 13, 2019!!! Details

Description

Extremely clean, semi-squeeze job. Big moves characterize this route. Very "bouldery" but not steep. Thin edges that lie far away from eachother with some tricky footwork. Crux at midway...set your feet high, and stab for a shallow dish. Clip first bolt of Flex Your Head (or not, easy to skip or unclip), then move left to big jug that propels you onto a blank looking face. 5 more bolts gets you through the crux, where you move right and join Flex Your Head for 3 or 4 more bolts (you can easily skip the first bolt you encounter after joining Flex because you are already over it anyway...) and the anchors. Really fun hard climbing.

Location

Between "She's a Man, Man" and "Flex Your Head" (hence: "Transflexual.") VERY easy to toprope from "Flex Your Head"

Protection

8 or 10 bolts (you can skip two of them) and mussy hook/cold shut anchors (same as Flex Your Head anchors.) If you elect to clip bolts 1 and 7 longer draws would be nice.

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Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
Great addition Vic. Destined to be classic! Sep 27, 2010
Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
  5.12c
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
  5.12c
It's a lot less of a squeeze-job than it looks. It shares the beginning but then climbs completely independently of Flex your Head until joining it at a logical point. The climbing on it is great as is the rock. I hate split grades so given the choice, I would go with 12c over 12b. Of course I'm short and that may have something to do with it. Certainly harder than most of the 12b's down there. Thanks for putting it up, Vic. Sep 28, 2010
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
  5.12b/c
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
  5.12b/c
Thanks Tom! Monday is local's day... Nov 9, 2010
I thought this route was fantastic. Found some interesting techy beta through the crux involving a thumbdercling move. Very cool. Feb 26, 2019