Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Vic Lawson
Page Views: 1,330 total · 11/month
Shared By: Victor Lawson on Sep 25, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Extremely clean, semi-squeeze job. Big moves characterize this route. Very "bouldery" but not steep. Thin edges that lie far away from eachother with some tricky footwork. Clip first bolt of Flex Your Head (or not, easy to skip or unclip), then move left to big jug that propels you onto a blank looking face. 5 more bolts gets you through the crux, where you move right and join Flex Your Head for 3 or 4 more bolts (you can easily skip the first bolt you encounter after joining Flex because you are already over it anyway...) and the anchors. Really fun hard climbing.

Location

Between "She's a Man, Man" and "Flex Your Head" (hence: "Transflexual.") VERY easy to toprope from "Flex Your Head"

Protection

8 or 10 bolts (you can skip two of them) and mussy hook/cold shut anchors (same as Flex Your Head anchors.) If you elect to clip bolts 1 and 7 longer draws would be nice.

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