Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Elbow Room

Aunti Vigilante S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chuckers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Don't Kid, Minibike S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Iceberg II S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P.D. Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pet Trackers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phoenix S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quail Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quail Trail S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slip 'n Slide S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
You Don't Want None S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Kelly Cordner, Barry Oswick (1997) GU
Page Views: 4,378 total, 33/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Dec 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


51 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Four bolts of slab climbing (with a 5.9 crux encountered after the fourth bolt) leads to a striking hand crack. Follow bolts up this beautiful, sustained crack which gets steeper and steeper with height. Simply awesome!

The route can be climbed as one long pitch or broken down into two. With a single 50 or 60-meter rope, it will take two rappels to get back down.

Location

Walk to the high point of the talus slope that abuts Lower Elbow Room. The route starts on the right-hand side of this high point--look above for the striking hand crack that sits left of a clean left-facing dihedral (which is "Palm Reader").

Protection

12-13 bolts
Carl Martin
San Francisco
Carl Martin   San Francisco
I loved this climb and we did it as two pitches. I lowered off my follower from the top to ground with a 70 then rappelled. Mar 26, 2016
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
The badly worn open shuts have been replaced with Mussy Hooks as of January 22, 2015. Jan 27, 2015
BruceB
Reno, NV
 
BruceB   Reno, NV
 
Really fun climb. Our 70m rope stopped about three feet off the ground. May 26, 2011
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
 
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
 
I was just there in April - lead this one and loved it more than when I cleaned it in November.

My 70m brought me safely to the ground - with rope to spare. I wonder if it has anything to do with which side of the slide you lower off? The party just ahead of us were short roped, and they had lowered off to the right of the bulge - more along the bolt line.

I lowered off to the left of the bulge ... just a heads up for anyone else coming down. (I have a 70m Edelweiss)and I rapped off the same line in November and had no problems.

Awesome climb too! May 15, 2010
JMo
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
this route is fantastic, thanks to those who put it up. 1 minor comment, unless mammut screwed up and made my 70m rope 10 feet short you will not make it to the ground on a 70m, so be careful. luckily my belayer was on it and noticed in time, but be sure and knot your rope. a 70m will get you to the easy 5.1 climbing that starts the route- you can stand up, untie, and downclimb no problem. but if you are just rapping down you might get an unpleasant surprise. Apr 11, 2010
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
This is one of my top 5 routes in the Gorge!! Dec 21, 2006