Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Kelly Cordner, Barry Oswick (1997) GU
Page Views: 5,233 total · 35/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Dec 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details


Four bolts of slab climbing (with a 5.9 crux encountered after the fourth bolt) leads to a striking hand crack. Follow bolts up this beautiful, sustained crack which gets steeper and steeper with height. Simply awesome!

The route can be climbed as one long pitch or broken down into two. With a single 50 or 60-meter rope, it will take two rappels to get back down.


Walk to the high point of the talus slope that abuts Lower Elbow Room. The route starts on the right-hand side of this high point--look above for the striking hand crack that sits left of a clean left-facing dihedral (which is "Palm Reader").


12-13 bolts


Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
This is one of my top 5 routes in the Gorge!! Dec 21, 2006
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
this route is fantastic, thanks to those who put it up. 1 minor comment, unless mammut screwed up and made my 70m rope 10 feet short you will not make it to the ground on a 70m, so be careful. luckily my belayer was on it and noticed in time, but be sure and knot your rope. a 70m will get you to the easy 5.1 climbing that starts the route- you can stand up, untie, and downclimb no problem. but if you are just rapping down you might get an unpleasant surprise. Apr 11, 2010
Reno, NV
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
I was just there in April - lead this one and loved it more than when I cleaned it in November.

My 70m brought me safely to the ground - with rope to spare. I wonder if it has anything to do with which side of the slide you lower off? The party just ahead of us were short roped, and they had lowered off to the right of the bulge - more along the bolt line.

I lowered off to the left of the bulge ... just a heads up for anyone else coming down. (I have a 70m Edelweiss)and I rapped off the same line in November and had no problems.

Awesome climb too! May 15, 2010
Reno, NV
BruceB   Reno, NV
Really fun climb. Our 70m rope stopped about three feet off the ground. May 26, 2011
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
The badly worn open shuts have been replaced with Mussy Hooks as of January 22, 2015. Jan 27, 2015
Roadsoda _
San Francisco
Roadsoda _   San Francisco
I loved this climb and we did it as two pitches. I lowered off my follower from the top to ground with a 70 then rappelled. Mar 26, 2016
Matt Soria
Chcago, IL
Matt Soria   Chcago, IL
This may be one of my favorite climbs of all time! Really loved it! Getting over the lip before the crack starts was a little freaky — not much to hold onto hand-wise, but if you trust a high foot on slab then you'll get over just fine. The crack was long enough to be interesting and challenging, but there's still some breaks in there so you don't have to hand/finger jam the whole thing. Will absolutely climb this one again next time I'm at Owens. Dec 1, 2017
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
Our new aka for this route is "Crack-a-Toey" because the foot-work in the crack is hard on the toes if you are wimp like us.
Edit to add: we replaced those worn anchors. Nov 10, 2018