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Routes in Flavin Haven

C-4 Yourself S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caldera S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunned Down by Goofy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Honey Badger Don't Care S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jaws of Life S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lava Haul S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nice Jugs S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tore Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Kelly Cordner
Page Views: 2,515 total · 19/month
Shared By: Bruce Willey on Jun 4, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details


Excellent climb, one of the best of its grade in the Gorge. Mantle up past two bolts heading right to a wide step-across to the left. Crimp and smear up a slabby section to a small ramp to the left. Lieback around and up to the dihedral and then straight up to the anchors.


Upper Gorge Flavin Haven


17 bolts


B.S. Luther
Yorba Linda, CA
B.S. Luther   Yorba Linda, CA
Highly recommended climb. If your accustomed to vertical face climbing like me, this is a really interesting foray into angles of all kinds. Apr 4, 2011
kelly cordner
Fish Lake Valley, NV
kelly cordner   Fish Lake Valley, NV
Lava Haul was extended to higher anchors. I counted 16 bolts. Use a 70 meter rope. The grade is still 10a. This route was originally set as a rope solo ground up using a soloist. The lower anchors were used to accommodate the shorter ropes of 90's. you can get to the original chain anchors (maybe a 10b move) and set up a top rope on Caldera with a 70m rope. Those anchors were used to set the "point full" variation on Caldera. Apr 18, 2012
Las Vegas and Sierra Eastside
Xtine   Las Vegas and Sierra Eastside
One of the best 10a's I've ever climbed, thanks Kelly. Quite an adventure with the slab, liebacking, crimps/edges, traversing, crack, jugs, high stepping, mantling....used almost all on this route. And love that it's long. Bring an extendable to prevent rope drag on the 5th or so bolt. Apr 12, 2014
Livingston, MT
kozzybear406   Livingston, MT
Bring 17 draws if you want to clip them all. Apr 14, 2014
tahoemnts Schroeder
Truckee, California
tahoemnts Schroeder   Truckee, California
NOTE: This route is 17 bolts not 13. You need a 70 meter rope to lower off anchors. 60 meter rope will not get you to the ground as I experienced this issue yesterday. It appears the route described in the latest Gorge guide is out of date. Nov 10, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
One of the best sport pitches of 5.10 I've done anywhere. Really good and really glad I brought extra draws (and still had to backclean a couple bolts) and a 70m line.

On the grade side, the budding 5.10 leader will likely struggle on this one, so 5.10a seems light to me. It had my attention for sure. Jan 24, 2015
Eric Gratien
Ridgecrest, CA
Eric Gratien   Ridgecrest, CA
Fantastic climb. Pumpy at the top but very well protected. I also definitely recommend extending the 5th-7th bolts to prevent rope drag. Jan 26, 2016
James Weiss 1
Newport Beach, California
James Weiss 1   Newport Beach, California
Probably the best 10a I've ever climbed. This route has it all. Absolute classic!

And yes, bring some extra draws for this one. I think I used 16. Jan 14, 2018
What a gem! Pumpy, thin, steep, something for everyone Hard for most 10a's. I gave it 10a/b. So glad we did this one. Jan 23, 2018
Adam P.
San Jose, CA
Adam P.   San Jose, CA
As Kelly Cordner commented, the climb has been extended. Bring a 70m rope, and I think 15 draws. We used two more draws than were noted in Marty Lewis' 10th edition guidebook, which I think makes it 15 draws. This is a very good climb, and I found it slightly more challenging than other 10a routes in the Gorge. Feb 20, 2018

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