Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Kelly Cordner
Page Views: 3,050 total · 22/month
Shared By: Bruce Willey on Jun 4, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


87 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Excellent climb, one of the best of its grade in the Gorge. Mantle up past two bolts heading right to a wide step-across to the left. Crimp and smear up a slabby section to a small ramp to the left. Lieback around and up to the dihedral and then straight up to the anchors.

Location

Upper Gorge Flavin Haven

Protection

17 bolts

Photos

B.S. Luther
Yorba Linda, CA
 
B.S. Luther   Yorba Linda, CA
 
Highly recommended climb. If your accustomed to vertical face climbing like me, this is a really interesting foray into angles of all kinds. Apr 4, 2011
kelly cordner
Fish Lake Valley, NV
  5.10a
kelly cordner   Fish Lake Valley, NV
  5.10a
Lava Haul was extended to higher anchors. I counted 17 bolts. Use a 70 meter rope. The grade is still 10a. This route was originally set as a rope solo ground up using a soloist. The lower anchors were used to accommodate the shorter ropes of 90's. you can get to the original chain anchors (maybe a 10b move) and set up a top rope on Caldera with a 70m rope. Those anchors were used to set the "point full" variation on Caldera. (fixed my inaccurate bolt count) Apr 18, 2012
Xtine
Las Vegas and Sierra Eastside
Xtine   Las Vegas and Sierra Eastside
One of the best 10a's I've ever climbed, thanks Kelly. Quite an adventure with the slab, liebacking, crimps/edges, traversing, crack, jugs, high stepping, mantling....used almost all on this route. And love that it's long. Bring an extendable to prevent rope drag on the 5th or so bolt. Apr 12, 2014
kozzybear406
Livingston, MT
 
kozzybear406   Livingston, MT
 
Bring 17 draws if you want to clip them all. Apr 14, 2014
tahoemnts Schroeder
Truckee, California
 
tahoemnts Schroeder   Truckee, California
 
NOTE: This route is 17 bolts not 13. You need a 70 meter rope to lower off anchors. 60 meter rope will not get you to the ground as I experienced this issue yesterday. It appears the route described in the latest Gorge guide is out of date. Nov 10, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a/b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a/b
One of the best sport pitches of 5.10 I've done anywhere. Really good and really glad I brought extra draws (and still had to backclean a couple bolts) and a 70m line.

On the grade side, the budding 5.10 leader will likely struggle on this one, so 5.10a seems light to me. It had my attention for sure. Jan 24, 2015
Eric Gratien
Moab, UT
Eric Gratien   Moab, UT
Fantastic climb. Pumpy at the top but very well protected. I also definitely recommend extending the 5th-7th bolts to prevent rope drag. Jan 26, 2016
James Weiss
Newport Beach, CA
  5.10a
James Weiss   Newport Beach, CA
  5.10a
Probably the best 10a I've ever climbed. This route has it all. Absolute classic!

And yes, bring some extra draws for this one. I think I used 16. Jan 14, 2018
BAd
  5.10a/b
BAd  
  5.10a/b
What a gem! Pumpy, thin, steep, something for everyone Hard for most 10a's. I gave it 10a/b. So glad we did this one. Jan 23, 2018
Adam P.
San Jose, CA
 
Adam P.   San Jose, CA
 
As Kelly Cordner commented, the climb has been extended. Bring a 70m rope, and I think 15 draws. We used two more draws than were noted in Marty Lewis' 10th edition guidebook, which I think makes it 15 draws. This is a very good climb, and I found it slightly more challenging than other 10a routes in the Gorge. Feb 20, 2018