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Areas in Inner Gorge

Crystal Corridor 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
DMZ 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Dilithium Crystal, The 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Eldorado Roof 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Fun House 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Land of the Giants 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Local Trivia Tower 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
McCracken Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Megalithic 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Monkey to Monk Cliff 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Mothership Cliff 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Narrows East 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Narrows West 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
P.T. Barnum Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Rob's Rock 4 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Staying Power Towers 1 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Supreme Wizard Formation 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Weird Corner 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Description

The northern part of the inner gorge is the most remote part of the gorge and usually least crowded. The gorge is narrower here and there are several old mines and buildings. Towards the southern inner gorge the Dilithium Crystal and the Eldorado Roof provide steeper climbing and higher grades. The Mothership is home to excellent rock and some of the best difficult, technical routes. The southern end also has an old power plant and one of the two toilets in the Gorge.
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Getting There

The inner gorge can be approached by either the central or the upper approach depending on where you want to climb. The upper approach is best for the Narrows and areas North, while the Central is best for Dilithium, Eldorado, and Mothership.

113 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Inner Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Look Up
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Extreme Caffeine
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood Sugar Sex Magik
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Escapade
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Towering Inferno
Sport 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Photon Torpedo
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Living Dead
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Klingon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thieves in the Temple
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mind Meld
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Enterprise
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phasers on Stun
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Looney Binge
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fight Club
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Holey Wars
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Don't Look Up Staying Power Towers 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Extreme Caffeine Dilithium Crystal 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Blood Sugar Sex Magik Staying Power Towers 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Escapade Fun House 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Towering Inferno Eldorado Roof 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 5 pitches
Photon Torpedo Dilithium Crystal 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Living Dead Mothership Cliff 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Klingon Dilithium Crystal 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Thieves in the Temple Staying Power Towers 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Mind Meld Dilithium Crystal 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Enterprise Dilithium Crystal 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Phasers on Stun Dilithium Crystal 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Looney Binge Eldorado Roof 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Fight Club Mothership Cliff 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Holey Wars Mothership Cliff 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Inner Gorge »

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Photos

Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
Coming left to right from Monkey to Monk
Clearcut Beaver 12a
Fear of the Facial 11a
Full Stainless Skivvies 12b
AstroBoy 12b (in the guide but new 1st pitch is 5.9 dihedral)
Norman 11b short face up side of pillar below astroboy
?? 10a starts up face and goes right around to slab
next 2 are 5.8 and 5.10 but I can't remember which is which.

The first 3 routes are listed on MP on the Monkey to Monk page and Norman is listed on the Narrows East section.
Enjoy. Mar 4, 2014
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Does anyone have any info about the newer routes between Monkey to Monk and Narrows East? Seem like a bunch right on the corner that are still part of the Narrows formation and then around the corner too. Mar 3, 2014

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