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Routes in Mothership Cliff

Barracuda S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blood Sport S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Catch and Release S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Excelsior S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fight Club S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holey Wars S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Living Dead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Northern Pike S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sea Monkey S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steelhead S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Tom Herbert
Page Views: 3,292 total, 24/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Ultra Classic. This long, vertical, extremely technical route may not be "in style" anymore, but it is one of the best hard routes in the gorge. It is very sustained, thin climbing on perfect rock. Part of the Tom Herbert "E" series. Big holds at the start quickly shrink into small edges and crimps with the odd pocket. The crux hits you about halfway up and features a series of long thin moves with tiny footholds. The top lets up a little but is no gimme. A must do.

Protection

10 quickdraws to coldshut anchor

Photos

Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
  5.12d
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
  5.12d
I had apprehensions before getting on this route. It looks intimidating and completely blank. I thought I was going to get completely shut down. On my first try I fell at what was the crux, a very hard section to read correctly as the holds are so small and far apart you can't see them until you're above them or know where they are already. I almost didn't give it another try because I was still slightly intimidated by it. Luckily I tried it one more time and got the red point. There was one section just before the chains that I felt was very difficult. Maybe I read the sequence wrong but I felt really stretched out on this move and I'm 6 foot with a +3 ape index.

This climb is fantastic and forces you to climb really controlled and static, you feel like Jonathan Siegrist moving up this route! Nov 30, 2014
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.13a
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.13a
For my money this is the best route in the Gorge. An incredible line, with great positioning and a beautiful crux. I think the crux is about v6 alone, and when you add in all of the other non-trivial climbing, I think a rating of 12d is a sandbag. Apr 1, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I TR'd this line at the end of a session, after putting some work in on Yellowstreak (5.13a). Thought I'd cool down on a "less hard" classic. Ho....ly...crap. Absolutely savage through the crux. I completely agree with Brad: the crux feels like V9.

Insanely elegant and beautiful. And did I say savage?

Not sure I could redpoint this. Ever. Apr 1, 2012
Got some beta to reach out left to a small crimp after the first hard bolt. It's desperately thin. I'll need to spit polish my shoes for this one. Jan 20, 2012
I'm 5'0" - was on the route yesterday. Couldn't quite reach that hole off of those small feet and terrible down sloping, two finger right hand. I figured out a high left foot up to the high left two finger and right hand to the hole. Savage crux! Happy to redpoint this. May 14, 2011
Brad Gobright
1994 Honda Civic
Brad Gobright   1994 Honda Civic
The crux will involve a dyno to a small crimp for anyone who's a little short. A move that feels like V9 or 10, no joke! The rest of the climbing is super fun. Mar 16, 2010
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
  5.12d
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
  5.12d
Whoa thinness...very cool climb. A bit grainy to the second bolt, but you forget all that when you start warping your mind and tweaking your tendons heading in (and out) of the crux. Not for everyone... Apr 4, 2008
Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
  5.12d
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
  5.12d
Stellar rock climb. Get your crimp on. Jan 5, 2007