Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Gary Slate, Bruce Lella ext: Todd Graham
Page Views: 3,829 total · 26/month
Shared By: Tim Steele on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Either chimney up to the 3rd bolt (standard/original start) or fire off the .11c direct start into the pumpy upper wall. Head slightly left and then back right through a short overhang (the crux) to the highest anchors on the wall.

The route that splits off to the right at the 5th bolt is called the "Vulcan Variation" and checks in at .11d, but is not as classic.

This route is considered a gorge classic.

Location

On the South face of the Crystal.

Protection

11 bolts + mussy's.

Photos

426
 
426  
 
Superb route for the grade. Mar 26, 2007
Excerpt from Rock and Ice interview:

Fed up with the feuding, Bachar became depressed but continued to solo at a high level, especially at Owens River Gorge, which he had all to himself.

But within a couple of months other people found out about the Gorge. "I swear," says Bachar, "within six months there were 100 routes and they were all done on rappel. So again, I said, 'OK, every time these guys put up a route I'm gonna solo the thing.'"

Increasingly upset, Bachar once showed up at the Gorge, pointed his ghetto blaster right up the wall, cranked it to full volume and began soloing Klingon (5.12). "This climber chick came over," he says, "and asked me if I could turn the music down. I said, 'You know what, you guys got rap bolts, I got rap music. I was pretty pissed off. I'd just been through the same thing in Tuolumne. I was like, 'Where do I have to go, Mars?'" Feb 12, 2008
JamesLucas Lucas
Boulder, CO
JamesLucas Lucas   Boulder, CO
Rad route- one the best at the Crystal, especially if you want to be onsighting and see a rabies filled bat in one of the pockets higher. Jan 20, 2012