Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tom Herbert, 1990
Page Views: 7,292 total · 48/month
Shared By: C Miller on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

One of the four classic "E" routes from Tom Herbert, this Gorge classic takes an amazing line out a substantial roof on the left side of the Dilithium Crystal formation.

A vertical face quickly gains the imposing roof (which is much easier than appearances suggest) which is rife with positive holds albeit a bit strenuous. The crux lies just above the lip as you struggle to get established on the slab above; once over it's a matter of holding it together to the anchors.

Protection

10 bolts, anchors
JamesLucas Lucas
Boulder, CO
JamesLucas Lucas   Boulder, CO
Amazing route. As you pull over the roof, imagine John Bachar soloing, in hot pink lycra shorts that make hims ass look big. Jan 20, 2012
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12b
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12b
This is 12b all day, any day, and a harder red-point than Mind Meld just down the wall to the climber's right. Apr 1, 2013
Drew B.
SLC
Drew B.   SLC
As of 2/24/2015, two grooved out carabiners were switched out. The route is good to go. Feb 25, 2015
Andrew Child
Corvallis, Or
 
Andrew Child   Corvallis, Or
 
This climb felt substantially easier than Loony Binge, maybe I just have no upper body strength though. Dec 20, 2016