Avg: 3.3 from 20 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||1,948 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Dec 21, 2006|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
The better start follows the arete left of the chimney and sets you up for an off-vertical technical crux after the first bolt. The problem with this approach is that the first bolt can be a difficult and dangerous clip for the reach impaired. The alternate start is to climb easily up the chimney, traversing left onto Lt. U at its third bolt; the route loses at least a star when done this way.
A compromise approach is to climb the chimney, clip the third bolt, downclimb to the ground, then climb the direct line toproped, leading on after the third bolt. The climbing above the third bolt is steep, juggy and exciting with an endurance crux getting to the last bolt.
Extra value: a huge, clean pendulum is to be had after cleaning the last bolt while lowering.