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Routes in The Dilithium Crystal

Coffee Achiever S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dr Claw S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Enterprise S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Extreme Caffeine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Klingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lava Java S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieutenant Uhura S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Liquid Fire S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mind Meld S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Not for Sale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Phasers on Stun S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Photon Torpedo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Romulan Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shuttle Craft S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stardate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trouble with Tribbles (aka Impulse Power) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,460 total · 10/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Dec 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details


Even though this pitch has a significant blemish, it has so much good climbing on it that I still have to give it top marks.

The better start follows the arete left of the chimney and sets you up for an off-vertical technical crux after the first bolt. The problem with this approach is that the first bolt can be a difficult and dangerous clip for the reach impaired. The alternate start is to climb easily up the chimney, traversing left onto Lt. U at its third bolt; the route loses at least a star when done this way.

A compromise approach is to climb the chimney, clip the third bolt, downclimb to the ground, then climb the direct line toproped, leading on after the third bolt. The climbing above the third bolt is steep, juggy and exciting with an endurance crux getting to the last bolt.

Extra value: a huge, clean pendulum is to be had after cleaning the last bolt while lowering.


Start at the base of a chimney on the right edge of the south face of the DC.


8 bolts.


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Sounds like the best compromise is a stick clip Apr 18, 2017
How many climbers do the arete start vs the chimney I wonder. I have been on it twice, chimney when I tried for the onsight but failed at the crux and the arete when I got the redpoint a couple of years later. Doing the arete start bumps the difficulty for sure! I have heard some consider the arete 11d/12a. Mar 18, 2018

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