Avg: 3.8 from 68 votes
|Type:||Sport, 480 ft (145 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Lewis, Calder, Croft -- 5/98|
|Page Views:||17,039 total · 88/month|
|Shared By:||jonathan howland on Nov 4, 2006|
|Admins:||Euan Cameron, AWinters, Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski|
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
P1 (11a) -- the grand traverse. Start in alcove at lower right of roof. Crux bet. 3rd and 4th bolt. If you're tall you can clip the 3rd bolt from a secure stemming stance. The rest of the pitch is fairly manageable unless you indulge the rookie impulse/mistake and get too high on the traverse. 15 bolts.
P2 (11a) -- Excellent right off the belay with a definitive crux through the small roof, near the 5th bolt, then backs off. 10 bolts.
P3 (10d?) -- The rock deteriorates, but not the climbing. Weird cups & bowls; some meandering. Crux near end of pitch. 10 bolts.
P4 (11b) -- Tricky. Do full recon (with fingers, not eyes) before committing . Crux passing 2nd bolt. 10 bolts
P5 (11a) -- Turn the first corner low. Then a powerful boulder problem rendered less so on account of heel lever on shelf. 5 bolts.
Descent: rap the route with one 60 meter rope, with the final rappel over the roof to the ground.