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Routes in Eldorado Roof

Disco Inferno S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freddie Flores S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gape Index S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godzilla Does the Dizzy Tango S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Letter Bomb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Looney Binge S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slacker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Towering Inferno S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 480 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Lewis, Calder, Croft -- 5/98
Page Views: 12,357 total · 86/month
Shared By: jonathan howland on Nov 4, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

For novelty, length, and position, an ORG must-do.
P1 (11a) -- the grand traverse. Start in alcove at lower right of roof. Crux bet. 3rd and 4th bolt. If you're tall you can clip the 3rd bolt from a secure stemming stance. The rest of the pitch is fairly manageable unless you indulge the rookie impulse/mistake and get too high on the traverse. 15 bolts.
P2 (11a) -- Excellent right off the belay with a definitive crux through the small roof, near the 5th bolt, then backs off. 10 bolts.
P3 (10d?) -- The rock deteriorates, but not the climbing. Weird cups & bowls; some meandering. Crux near end of pitch. 10 bolts.
P4 (11b) -- Tricky. Do full recon (with fingers, not eyes) before committing . Crux passing 2nd bolt. 10 bolts
P5 (11a) -- Turn the first corner low. Then a powerful boulder problem rendered less so on account of heel lever on shelf. 5 bolts.
Descent: rap the route with one 60 meter rope, with the final rappel over the roof to the ground.

Protection

15 draws. Long draws or slings helpful on pitches 3 & 4.

Photos

urs
 
urs  
 
This was by far one of my favorite routes in the gorge. Combines endurance, power, and strength on this long sustained route. Though right after pitch 4, you belay in the gold dihedral does anyone know why the first ascendents didnt go straight up this dihedral? The dihedral itself looks much better than the 5th pitch. Dec 3, 2009
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
FYI P3 has 11 bolts.

When we rapped the last pitch the top of the "gold dihedral" looked like total choss. It also could have been harder than the FAist wanted. Nov 28, 2011
steple
5.11b
steple  
5.11b
What a great route! Especially pitches 1 and 4.

I found two quickdraws on pitch 4, send me a message if you want them back. Oct 10, 2012
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
Timelapse of the route. It super fun, just go for it.

vimeo.com/90866426 Jul 31, 2014
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
A little moderate gem at the Roof Area!! First Pitch is one of the best horizontal pitches I have ever climbed!! Long Traverse across the rim of the roof through fantastic, reachy holds until your out of sight of your belayer then charge straight up the next couple pitches. Unique, beautiful and certainly worth the BUrn!!!

P.S. The Free hanging rap offers nearly as much fun as the way up! Dec 5, 2015
Super stellar climbing the whole way up, that first pitch is money! But be careful not to get your rope stuck on the first rappel... what began as a smooth climb became a cold, dark epic as we tried to free a stuck rope. After ascending we found that the rope wasn't caught on anything in particular, but the rock is very rough and flaky coming over the bulge and created enough friction to make the rope unpullable. Definitely don't do a double rope rappel or it will be stuck forever. Also a single 60m rope is long enough to do all the rappels despite the guide book saying you need a 70. Amazing climb, highly recommended! Jan 18, 2016

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