Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Tom Herbert, 5/90
Page Views: 1,395 total · 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

This is the second route from the left and sits just right of the excellent Thumbs Up (5.11c). The route starts higher than the others and requires a bit of a scramble to reach the base.

Enjoyable moves up vertical rock on mostly positive holds comprise the lower crux, but brace yourself for the dicey slab moves (5.10+) near the top of the route which can throw you off if your footwork isn't dialed.

A stellar route, and the easiest of the Tom Herbert "E" routes, all of which are excellent. This route will not only test your lock-off strength, but your slab climbing ability as well, and it's precisely that reason which makes it such a classic.

Protection

8 bolts, anchors

Photos

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Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
  5.11a
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
  5.11a
The dicey slab moves up top make the route. Although the bolt is nearby, it is still a bit scary since you and your belayer can't see or hear each other. As my partner put it, "I felt all alone up there". Awesome route. Dec 6, 2006
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Has a distinctly "old-school" feel. The bolt placements are sporty, but not particularly run-out. The physical cruxes seemed to be lower on the route, but the moves past the last bolt test your mental stamina—and your toes. Almost every hold is perfect. In my opinion, this is a 5.11a for someone very comfortable at the grade. Not a great climb for someone breaking in to the 11's. Apr 1, 2012
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11a
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11a
Except for the to me stupid runout to the first bolt(why on a top down route???) this route is great. Some of the best rock in the Gorge. Continuous climbing that keeps your attention all the way to the end. And yes, you do feel all alone up there. Jan 29, 2014
I hate slab climbing, but I have to admit this is stellar... Nov 26, 2018