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Routes in Staying Power Towers

Bender S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Sugar Sex Magik S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Don't Look Down S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Look Up S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Insane In The Membrane S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Members Only S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Optimator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thieves in the Temple S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
To Knee or Not to Knee T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wired S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ya Shoulda' Killed Me Last Year S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Fred Berman & Marty Lewis, '91.
Page Views: 1,819 total, 14/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Dec 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Long, fun climb with a couple cruxes and tons of jug hauling. Don't worry when you're gassed and you can't see the anchor--the last 60 feet are 5.9 jugs.

Location

See Marty Lewis guide.

Protection

Lots of bolts (16?). Rap twice with a single 60m rope to Insane in the Membrane; watch rope ends!

Photos

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John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
If you have an old 70m, you won't even make the ledge. Luckily, you can stop at the 5.12 anchors on the right and lower again.

Super fun climbing the whole way, definitely a top ten 5.10 sport climb. Mar 11, 2017
mattang
rifle, co
  5.10d
mattang   rifle, co
  5.10d
Two different style cruxes on one long pitch... as fun as it gets. Use an 80m. Nov 18, 2013
Patrick M.
Vancouver
  5.10d
Patrick M.   Vancouver
  5.10d
Great route! I'll had my experience with the rap here. I have a 70m and it was significantly short of the ledge (by circa 5 meters). I'm pretty sure my rope is true to its length so be careful. Nov 6, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Fun route with technical climbing on large/sloping features through the first section. Not crimpy but attention getting on the bottom end. Up high the route pitches out some but features are large & plentiful with an easy and enjoyable stance for the anchor. Highly Recommended! Did it with a 100 meter rope so there was plenty on the ground - longer routes seem to be pretty popular in the ORG & many people starting to carry 80m ropes. This would be one of those situations. Oct 1, 2013
Amazing climb! Just wanted to make sure people understand as the last poster mentioned with a 70 meter rope the belayer has to climb up to the little ledge in order to get the climber down to that same ledge safely. Apr 20, 2013
We used a 70m rope to lower off and it worked just fine - but both climbers must be standing on the ledge. You definitely want to tie a knot at the end of the rope, because your belayer will most likely want to have his/her hands free to climb onto the ledge, as it involves a few 4th class moves to get to the ledge (about 11 feet off the ground). Very mellow and very easy for both climber and belayer to downclimb. Highly recommended route, especially if 5.10d is normally hard for you. Nov 14, 2011
The Lewis guide seems to indicate you can lower off with a 70m rope to the ledge at the start of the climb. We tried this today and found it comes up significantly short no matter what you try to do. Better to rap off or lower to the Insane in the Membrane anchors, even with a 70m. If you had an 80m it would be just fine! :) Feb 13, 2011
A top ten ORG pitch. Dec 21, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10d
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d
Lots and lots of climbing on this long and very enjoyable route. Also the name of a great album by the Red Hot Chili Peppers. Dec 21, 2006