PRINT: Rock Climb Blood Sugar Sex Magik, Owens River Gorge

Blood Sugar Sex Magik

5.10d, Sport, 150 ft (45 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 79 votes
FA: Fred Berman & Marty Lewis, '91.
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Inner Gorge > Staying Power Towers

Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.

1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.

Description

Long, fun climb with a couple cruxes and tons of jug hauling. Don't worry when you're gassed and you can't see the anchor--the last 60 feet are 5.9 jugs.

Location

See Marty Lewis guide.

Protection

Lots of bolts (16?). Rap twice with a single 60m rope to Insane in the Membrane; watch rope ends!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA

5.10d

Lots and lots of climbing on this long and very enjoyable route. Also the name of a great album by the Red Hot Chili Peppers. Dec 21, 2006

david goldstein

A top ten ORG pitch. Dec 21, 2006

Tavis Ricksecker

The Lewis guide seems to indicate you can lower off with a 70m rope to the ledge at the start of the climb. We tried this today and found it comes up significantly short no matter what you try to do. Better to rap off or lower to the Insane in the Membrane anchors, even with a 70m. If you had an 80m it would be just fine! :) Feb 13, 2011

danielwhore

We used a 70m rope to lower off and it worked just fine - but both climbers must be standing on the ledge. You definitely want to tie a knot at the end of the rope, because your belayer will most likely want to have his/her hands free to climb onto the ledge, as it involves a few 4th class moves to get to the ledge (about 11 feet off the ground). Very mellow and very easy for both climber and belayer to downclimb. Highly recommended route, especially if 5.10d is normally hard for you. Nov 14, 2011

marc farra

Amazing climb! Just wanted to make sure people understand as the last poster mentioned with a 70 meter rope the belayer has to climb up to the little ledge in order to get the climber down to that same ledge safely. Apr 20, 2013

susan peplow
Joshua Tree

Fun route with technical climbing on large/sloping features through the first section. Not crimpy but attention getting on the bottom end. Up high the route pitches out some but features are large & plentiful with an easy and enjoyable stance for the anchor. Highly Recommended! Did it with a 100 meter rope so there was plenty on the ground - longer routes seem to be pretty popular in the ORG & many people starting to carry 80m ropes. This would be one of those situations. Oct 1, 2013

Patrick M.
Vancouver

5.10d

Great route! I'll had my experience with the rap here. I have a 70m and it was significantly short of the ledge (by circa 5 meters). I'm pretty sure my rope is true to its length so be careful. Nov 6, 2013

matchez
mammoth lakes, ca

5.10d

Two different style cruxes on one long pitch... as fun as it gets. Use an 80m. Nov 18, 2013

Rick Ziegler
Bishop, CA

5.10d

Agree with mattang. Much more fun with an 80m Jan 20, 2018

Adam P
Truckee, CA

Phenomenal route - 5 out of 5 stars and one of the best in the ORG. Lower off w/an 80m. Nov 22, 2021