Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Lewis & Berman
Page Views: 156 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 16, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Almost anywhere else I would be bummed to find such a nice crack bolted but this fun route fits right in at the Gorge. A difficult move(crux for me) gets you to the second bolt(don't miss the strenuous clip here as the first bolt is kinda low). A hidden hand jam allows for a bit of a rest before a short tight hands section gets you to the third bolt. Easer climbing along the crack leads to a small roof. Strenuous moves and a big reach get you up and over the roof. Easier but pumpy climbing up the just off vertical face to the anchor.

Location

Uphill and left of the classic Blood Sugar Sex Magik

Protection

9 bolts

Photos

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Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11c
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11c
Fun route, 3 out of 5 stars.

Marty's guide shows he crux 11c getting past the roof. For me the hardest move was getting to and clipping the second bolt. Missing the clip here will likely land you on the ledge below. After the second bolt those with good crack climbing skills will find the middle section of this route easier and less strenuous. Feb 16, 2014