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Routes in Holy Trinity

Biochemically Compacted Sexual Affection S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Broski/Linaweaver S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Dawn S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Enslaved by the Belle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faith No More S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
One Gun Salute S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pick Pocket S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sex Packets S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Split Personality S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Bachar, Rick Cashner, 1988
Page Views: 6,181 total, 45/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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75 Opinions

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Description

The first sport route in the gorge. Ground up bolted by John Bachar in the late 80's. This route is easily identified but its copious amounts of chalk. Start off of the boulder and crank hard starting moves up the pocketed face. Halfway up move a little left to gain a good ledge. From the ledge either bust out left to a juggy flake system or continue up and right and then back left on pockets (harder but not as good). The pockets on this climb are amazing.

Protection

5 quickdraws to lowering anchor
another Chad
  5.11a
another Chad  
  5.11a
Really thrilled to have been able to climb Pick Pocket. The route is fantastic and it was nice to climb a Bachar route.

Chad Jun 12, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
A brilliant route- perfectly protected, amazing movement, probably one of the best 5.11s i've done almost anywhere. In the Gorge, I think the only reason it doesn't get 5 stars is because its probably the shortest 5.11 as well, having 'only' 6 bolts...

I stick clipped the first bolt and would highly recommend anyone under 6' do the same (or use some gear)- the starting holds are very greasy and a fall while trying to clip the first bolt would not end well.

Well worth the hike for sure. Jan 27, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Fair enough Tom. Nov 13, 2011
Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
 
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
 
"How can it be a sport route if it was bolted from the ground up?"

It's a sport route because it's all bolts to a bolt anchor and they are nice and close together. A high percentage of sport routes are put in ground up. The style of FA doesn't change the fact that a route with a bolt every 8 feet is a sport route, even if it was put up by Bachar. Nov 3, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
How can it be a sport route if it was bolted from the ground up? Nov 3, 2011
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11a
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11a
Great climb. The moves to reach the flake are fairly reachy if you leave the move left too late. (I updated the FA info) May 29, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Caught, you got on that route the day before we were looking at it. Hard to pass up .....but we did.

Also, the description states Ayers/Bachar. I believe it was Rick Cashner & John Bachar who put it up in the late 80's.

Good on ya!

~Susan Jun 9, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Fantastic climb on some ridiculously sweet pockets. 6 lead bolts instead of 5. Highly recommended. May 27, 2008
Folks of less than a certain height (5'9"?) will want to stick clip the first bolt or use gear (~blue Alien) to protect the first move which is a ways off the deck since you start on top of a block.

The crux occurs down low after that it is 10c pulling on some of the finest pockets anywhere. Jul 29, 2006