Type: Sport
FA: Lewis, Calder - 11/2000
Page Views: 4,297 total · 29/month
Shared By: jonathan howland on Nov 11, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

78 Opinions

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details


Outstanding pitch anywhere but all the more so in the ORG because fairly unusual -- 125 feet of mixed-sized crack climbing, though face-holds abound when/where you need them.
Descend on single rope rap. to Giveaway anchors, then another to ground.


Furthest to the right on Gorgeous Towers; starts with obvious crack.


14 bolts
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
very fun bolted wide crack, that just keeps going for a really long way! one of my favorite routes in the gorge! Jan 6, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Years ago while out climbing I asked Marty Lewis about this (Whacked Scenario. Pretty much the old standard, "hey what's with this bolted crack, I know you and Kevin have gear...."

The reply went something like this. People hike in and out of the gorge every day for sport climbing and if they had left the line for gear it would never get done.

As much as I like gear routes and mixed gear/bolted routes I've found myself thinking about that conversation many times. With all the routes that are available in the gorge, I think that Marty is correct. The masses won't hump a rack down.

That's my story.

~Susan Oct 2, 2007
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Even if people hump a rack down into the Gorge (c'mon, a set of singles is not that heavy), no one will have humped down the proper gear you would need for this route anyway and thus still no one would climb it. 4's, 5's, and 6's + something(s) bigger to cover 7" would prolly be required!! Feb 17, 2010
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
good route that keeps on giving all the way up. May 7, 2011
Los Angeles
Alexander   Los Angeles
So much fun! Huge holds and multiple ways of climbing this route make Wacked one of my favorite 10b routes ever. Don't like crack? Climb it using face holds. Don't like face? stick to crack all the way and get high on good climbing. Takes an entire 70m rope if you go straight up to top anchors. Aug 10, 2011
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
It is a sport climb and a good one. Nov 30, 2011
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
So much fun. You can complain all you want about the poor ethics of bolting a protectable line - OR you can just climb it and enjoy. Honestly it was pretty fun getting to do such a nice long pitch of mixed crack climbing without having to worry about bringing wide gear.

If it were elsewhere, I'd agree that it shouldn't be bolted - however, it's in the middle of a few thousand sport climbs, you've already got draws with you, so...when in rome, right? Dec 29, 2012
Jeez people if you don't like the bolts hump the 50 pounds of rack you would need down and plug away. Otherwise stfu and clip the bolts. Apr 6, 2013
my 70m rope was enough to make it all the way back down. Oct 3, 2016
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
I lead this as a pure crack/offwidth climb. AMAZING!!!!! So much fun. Big hands most of the way with a short section of arm baring/knee jamming in the wyde part 4/3's the way up. The crux after that is pretty wild too. My partner followed it without doing one jam, pure face. There you go, take your pick. Oct 18, 2016
Taylorsville, UT
DCrane   Taylorsville, UT
Wow! Super long, sustained climb. I had to work for it all the way and nearly came off more than once. Super fun climb!

I have to say, I usually agree with the idea that cracks shouldn't be bolted.In a place like this, though, I wouldn't have brought all the gear down for one trad climb and would have skipped this one with limited time in town. This is an incredible climb and I'm stoked we were able to get on it!

Thanks! Oct 29, 2016
Eric Leonard
oakland california
Eric Leonard   oakland california
5 star mega line. Amazing, simply amazing, one of my favorite lines in the upper gorge. A 70m will get u down in 1 rap Nov 26, 2018