Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Andy Selters and Bobby Knight (July '96)
Page Views: 1,634 total · 16/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jun 24, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Start the same as Wages of Skin but instead of stepping right, continue up the corner. Then lieback and face climb up some fun flakes, clipping 5 bolts. The final crux section is a series of small roofs near the top that will test your endurance and jamming abilities. However, a solid handjam is never far away, making the climbing easier than it first appears.

3 descent options:
Scramble to the top and walk off to the right.
Rappel to the ground with 2 ropes.
Make 2 single rope rappels using the pitch 1 anchors of Show Me the Monkey.

Protection

A double set of cams to "3 inches and a single set of nuts. It's a long pitch so keep rope drag in mind and extend those pieces under and through the roofs.

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jonathan howland
San Francisco
 
jonathan howland   San Francisco
 
I think the above description fair – but I'd give this pitch more plaudits/stars. It's got it all -- steep off the deck, followed by a teaser section of hand-crack and roof to get you primed for the business above, and an interlude of airy bolt-protected face before said action.
This is to say, Wages – which I like – is quite tidy by comparison.
  • Gear beta spoiler alert *
Rack a few med. nuts and a selection of small to finger sized-cams, but the ammo you need is 2 of each size from red to blue camalot, and a purple and green (C4's) -- these latter for the crux section. Save a blue for the crux too. Aug 16, 2010