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Routes in Gong Show Wall

Air Conditioner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Alpine Fracture Clinic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Anything Goes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barracuda T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brush Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Carney Trash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicks With Guns T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
D.M.Z. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eavesdropping T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freakshow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grab a Handful S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grainstem S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
He She S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hey! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Last Exit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Attraction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Milky Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Never Say Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overexposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Schlitzy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Self-Contained Unit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Show Me the Monkey T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sideshow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Social Climber T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Switch Hitter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tripping Old Birds S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wages of Skin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Andy Selters and Bobby Knight (July '96)
Page Views: 1,420 total, 16/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jun 24, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start the same as Wages of Skin but instead of stepping right, continue up the corner. Then lieback and face climb up some fun flakes, clipping 5 bolts. The final crux section is a series of small roofs near the top that will test your endurance and jamming abilities. However, a solid handjam is never far away, making the climbing easier than it first appears.

3 descent options:
Scramble to the top and walk off to the right.
Rappel to the ground with 2 ropes.
Make 2 single rope rappels using the pitch 1 anchors of Show Me the Monkey.

Protection

A double set of cams to "3 inches and a single set of nuts. It's a long pitch so keep rope drag in mind and extend those pieces under and through the roofs.

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I think the above description fair – but I'd give this pitch more plaudits/stars. It's got it all -- steep off the deck, followed by a teaser section of hand-crack and roof to get you primed for the business above, and an interlude of airy bolt-protected face before said action.
This is to say, Wages – which I like – is quite tidy by comparison.
  • Gear beta spoiler alert *
Rack a few med. nuts and a selection of small to finger sized-cams, but the ammo you need is 2 of each size from red to blue camalot, and a purple and green (C4's) -- these latter for the crux section. Save a blue for the crux too. Aug 16, 2010