Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Burrell, Leversee, E.C.Joe, Edmiaston (1976)
Page Views: 44,050 total · 259/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 24, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Considered by many to be the best moderate route in Southern California. Six incredible, wildly diverse pitches make this a Sierra Classic.

Pitch 1 (5.7+)
A beautiful, knobby crack slowly tapers before leading to a belay in a comfortable alcove. Stretch a 60m rope to reach the alcove. Climbers with a 50m rope will need to establish a belay from gear before the crack tapers to nothing.

Pitch 2 (5.8+)
Leaving the alcove is the clear crux of the pitch. Climb delicate face holds out the north (left-hand) wall of the alcove. Climb a slab alongside a thin crack and establish a belay in a cave-like alcove above.

Pitch 3 (5.7)
Exit right and enter a large chasm. Walk along the chasm to the far end. Chimney up and then scramble to a spacious ledge beneath the famous dihedral.

Pitch 4 (5.8/5.9)
One of the most memorable pitches you'll ever do. Lieback a wave-like left-facing dihedral. A finger size crack in the corner takes many small nuts, cams, & TCUs. Just as the difficulty eases, the crack widens into a gaping offwidth--place a 4-5" piece before setting off on the runout. Continue liebacking sans protection to a small belay ledge. Save some small gear for the belay. DO NOT be seduced out left of the offwidth onto face holds.

Pitch 5 (5.8)
Runout, diagonaling slab climbing past 4 bolts leads to a ledge with an aging pine tree (stump?!). The runouts are not horrendous.

Pitch 6 (5.8)
Step 15-20 feet left of the tree/stump and climb a beautiful splitter to the top.

Location

Wide Punks on Dope is located in a large recess on the South/Southwest side of the dome. The recess is created by a massive detached block on the right-hand side which abuts the dome. The approach from Needlerock Creek takes 45-90 minutes depending on your experience with the trail.

To descend from White Punks, walk north along the crest of the dome. Find the spot where the main east-west ridgeline nearly meets the top of Voodoo dome. Look for slings around a constriction and make a short rappel to the ground. Walk east or west (I like east) and then south around the dome.

Also, see Voodoo Dome main page.

Protection

Small to 3", carry extra small gear, 4-5" piece recommended.

Photos