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Routes in Three Hour Buttress

Hall Pass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
StrikeSlip T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Hour Arete T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Three Minute Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Austin Archer & Rick Ziegler
Page Views: 3,724 total, 46/month
Shared By: rickziegler Ziegler on May 13, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Four pitch climb with an easy approach. Pitch 1: left and below a bolt single bolt, then up a thin crack (5.9). Head up left to a 5.7 lieback corner. 30m pitch. 1 bolt + gear for belay (small + #2,#3) below small bush. Pitch 2: Start with 5.8 gear protected rightward traverse, then up a crack to a bolted bulge (5.9). 4 more bolts on the 5.8 arete lead to a bolted anchor. Pitch 3: 20m up the bolted arete (5.10a) to a bolted anchor. Pitch 4: Clip a bolt and commit to the crux mantle (5.10c), continue 30m up the bolted arete/face. (Alternately, continue left after the first bolt for the 5.10d, "Hall Pass" variation, leading to the same anchor)

Location

Approach: Park 0.6 miles past PrattÂ’s
0.6 miles past Pratt's Crack Gully on Pine Creek Road, to where small a creek crosses road.
Walk on old mining road, to use trail.
Short Class 3 to base of cliff.
10 minutes.

Protection

10 quickdraws. Gear: thin - 3 inch. 4 rappels with one 60 or 70m rope.
Zev
  5.10b
Zev  
  5.10b
The route still had some sun this morning before it turned the corner on the arete in the afternoon. Definitely climbable on a clear day in the later season.
Overall a great climb! The crux moves to start P4 are quite height dependent. Felt 10a/b for a tall guy, but my shorter partner said it felt harder. There are some really fun, thoughtful sequences higher up on that pitch before you get to the easy moves that lead to the final belay ledge.
I thought P1 had some non-trivial smearing / edging after the bolt to achieve the left leaning crack. The moves right from under the roof/bulge on P2 lead to fun jamming and then a semi-exposed move out to the right for the first bolt. P3 was straightforward and enjoyable. Nov 13, 2017
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b
climbed this again 6/23/17 in the morning. warm, but had a slight breeze. bishop topped out at 102 degrees that day... Jun 24, 2017
Norm Larson
Wilson, Wy.
Norm Larson   Wilson, Wy.
Whether you think it's a classic or not this a fun route. very fun. Leave the gear at the top of pitch two. I wasn't sure if it was mixed or just bolts up there and dragged the unnecessary gear with me but there are bolts aplenty. Enjoy. May 15, 2017
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Fun, but not classic IMO. First and last pitches are the good ones. The last pitch is definitely thoughtful at times. May 13, 2017
James Barnett
Bishop Ca.
James Barnett   Bishop Ca.
Super fun climb, great job guys. Bolts and some gear. Jun 18, 2016
Vit
  5.10a
Vit  
  5.10a
Great route!
Best to set up P1 belay at the anchors past the bulge.
P3 is 5.8, definitely not 10a.
P4 crux mantle right off the belay is maybe 10a, rest of the pitch is 5.8-5.9. Sep 30, 2015
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10c
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10c
Cheers to Austin and Rick for the great additions to a great area that Pine Creek is. Miss that rock! Jun 3, 2015
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10b
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10b
Really fun route. For me the pitch ratings felt; 5.9, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10b.
TR'd Hallpass, very good, but would be a bit spooky to lead the traverse over the roof.
Also TR'd Strikeslip P3 and P1 on the way down. P3 would make a good alternative to Three Hour Arete P3, but P1 felt a bit contrived.
Had the whole arete to ourselves but counted 20 vehicles in the Sheelite canyon parking area! Jun 1, 2015
A very fun route! Thank you for all the hard work on the new routes! Oct 21, 2014
karen roseme  
 
Great route Austin and Rick.
It was very fun with good protection and great rock! We loved the last pitch variation too.
Thanks Karen Aug 9, 2014
sibylle Hechtel
Colorado
 
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
 
Awesome route - good job! We encountered no rockfall nor loose rocks. May 16, 2013
Amy W.
bishop,ca
 
Amy W.   bishop,ca
 
Fun route. I look forward to trying Hall Pass next time. May 5, 2013
Just to clarify a couple of things:
1. The rock scarring on the face of 3 Hour Arete and at the base was ALL from cleaning the fourth pitch of Strikeslip. I had to remove several television size stacked blocks to get to the goods. I hope the scars fade with time but I felt like the death blocks should all be taken out. Strikeslip (and 3HA) now have very little loose rock and is worthy in its own right. I've spent dozens of days on this formation, I have seen NO natural rock fall (but some minor ice fall immediately after a snow)
2. Shameless plug: If you like this route, check out the nearby Lamb Wall. Moment of Zen is very good. There are a handful of other single pitch routes there too, all clean, well protected and worth doing.
Enjoy! Dec 16, 2012
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
 
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
 
Regarding rockfall, when I did it in Sept., there was a lot of fresh scarring surrounding the belay at the top of P3. Was this from cleaning on the FA? Would have had to come from near the top of the route to hit there. Dec 10, 2012
Thanks everyone for the positive feedback! I wanted to comment on the rock scarring at the base of this route. That was all from cleaning on "Strikeslip." I have yet to see any natural rock fall from this formation, though wearing a helmet would be prudent. Nov 26, 2012
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b
What an awesome route, definitely destined to become a super classic. I can, without hesitation, rank this stellar climb among such classics as Serenity Crack in the Valley and Direct Northwest Face on Lembert Dome in Tuolumne. A bit different in the type of climbing, but as good or better in terms of quality. Clean, well protectable/bolted, climb/rap with one 60m rope (knot ends, it's tight rapping from the top of P2 to the top of P1 of Strikeslip). Nice liebacking and jamming yields to relatively low angle edging. Crux goes at A0, if necessary. Superb position and very photogenic route viewed from the top down, especially when sun and shade are divided by the arete while the second (or a following party's leader) is climbing. Short, easy approach only helps. One word of caution: the base of the climb shows impact scars of massive, smaller sized rock fall... Nov 24, 2012
Old Skool
  5.10b/c
Old Skool  
  5.10b/c
Have done this route over a dozen times now since May of 2011 and still can't get over the aestheticness of it all. Great Job Austin and Rick.

The last three times I have thoroughly enjoyed the "Hall Pass" varitiation to the top. Nov 23, 2012
Thanks Darren. I've tried to make the description more clear, so folks know where to belay on P1 and where to traverse right to gain the start of the arete on P2. Nov 15, 2012
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
  5.10b
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
  5.10b
The belay bolt for pitch one was added a little bit later because naturally I think most want to keep heading up the mungy corner and skipping what we used as the FA belay. Off the the pitch one belay, head up and right into another corner, up and around roof(little bulge crux), and up the easy bolted arete to belay ledge. On the pitch two arete, roots have dried up and been pulled out, making for some nice natural gear placements somewhat close to bolts. This situation might be remedied soon. We're glad to hear folks are enjoying the route. Nov 4, 2012
We climbed the first 2 pitches yesterday, and look forward to coming back for the rest of this route, and StrikeSlip, sometime soon.

I did want to point out - the first pitch route description on Mountain Project differs from the description on the posted photo/topo, and neither one of them is quite right. The Mountain Project route description calls it a 40 meter pitch and specifically says "gear belay" - no mention of the belay bolt.

Out on the cliff, the belay bolt is about 30 meters up, not 35.

Using the route description beta we came up with our own variation. Climb the first pitch past the belay bolt, continuing up the corner another 10 meters to a nice belay ledge. Start pitch 2 by stepping down to traverse a thin crack to the right (5.9?, protects with small stoppers and cams) under a roof to join pitch 2 at the bolted 5.9 bulge.

Call it the "don't trust the internet" variation. Or, use the beta from the photo/topo and stay on route. If someone wants to edit the route description to mention the belay bolt and correct the pitch length, that would be spiffy.

Anyhow, great find by Austin and Rick, and another great Pine Creek mixed multi-pitch. Nov 2, 2012
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
 
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
 
This is a great route. That little boulder problem in the sky which kicks off P4 is a real gem. Next time I must do the variation finish. First time I had to stay on the arete 'cause it is so cool. Oct 18, 2012
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.10c
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.10c
Linked up first 2 P's of Strikeslip to last two of 3HA.

4th pitch was very fun! Cool crux sequence and some very awesome climbing. The rock is almost reminiscent of a granite Red Rock up there. Highly recommended. Aug 27, 2012
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
 
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
 
Nice climb! Thanks for putting it up! Jun 18, 2011
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10c
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10c
Nice job guys! I will be checking your work out soon. May 23, 2011
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
 
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
 
The short approach to this tidy little big route means there is no reason NOT to climb it! A great quick multipitch with some very interesting rock features (check out the crazy horizontal black ripples on the last pitch!) and great rock quality. Good place to go to be alone with your honey snookums, brother from another mother, or sister from another mister.

Can link pitches 1 and 2 w/ a 70m...I wouldn't link 3 and 4 tho, the first move of P4 is, uh, interesting.... May 14, 2011