Elevation: 7,593 ft
GPS: 36.107, -118.481 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 70,265 total · 450/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006 with improvements by Weston Roberts
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).

The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.

Getting There

Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.

Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.

15 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Sorcerer Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Sorcerer

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Stars and Stripes Forever
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 11
Sleight of Hand
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 229
Thin Ice
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 20
Lost at Sea
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Pinhead
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 15
Wailing Banshees
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
Ice Pirates
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 82
The Don Juan Wall
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
The Raven
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 37
Tradewinds
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 86
Atlantis
Trad 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 24
Scirocco
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 12
Davy Jones' Locker
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stars and Stripes Forever
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sleight of Hand
 11
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Thin Ice
 229
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Lost at Sea
 20
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Pinhead
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Wailing Banshees
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Ice Pirates
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
The Don Juan Wall
 82
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
The Raven
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Tradewinds
 37
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Atlantis
 86
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Scirocco
 24
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Davy Jones' Locker
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Sorcerer »

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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots! Sep 30, 2014
Jared M
Oakland, CA
Jared M   Oakland, CA
A single 70m rope rap from the bolts below the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch will *not* get you all the way down. Expect to down climb another ~50 feet of low 5th or sling a medium sized boulder to make another rappel Aug 23, 2018