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Routes in The Sorcerer

Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Duty Now for the Future T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Fantasia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scirocco S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tradewinds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
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Description

The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).

The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.

Getting There

Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.

Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.

15 Total Climbs

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Location: The Sorcerer Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Sorcerer

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Stars and Stripes Forever
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 11
Sleight of Hand
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 224
Thin Ice
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 20
Lost at Sea
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Pinhead
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 15
Wailing Banshees
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Ice Pirates
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 78
The Don Juan Wall
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
The Raven
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 35
Tradewinds
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 83
Atlantis
Trad 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 11
Davy Jones' Locker
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Scirocco
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stars and Stripes Forever
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sleight of Hand
 11
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Thin Ice
 224
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Lost at Sea
 20
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Pinhead
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Wailing Banshees
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Ice Pirates
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
The Don Juan Wall
 78
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
The Raven
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Tradewinds
 35
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Atlantis
 83
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Davy Jones' Locker
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Scirocco
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Sorcerer »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots! Sep 30, 2014
Jared M
Oakland, CA
Jared M   Oakland, CA
A single 70m rope rap from the bolts below the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch will *not* get you all the way down. Expect to down climb another ~50 feet of low 5th or sling a medium sized boulder to make another rappel Aug 23, 2018

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