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Routes in The Sorcerer

Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pyromania T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tradewinds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
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Description [Suggest Change]

The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).

The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.

Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.

14 Total Climbs

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Location: The Sorcerer Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Sorcerer

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Stars and Stripes Forever
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 10
Sleight of Hand
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 207
Thin Ice
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 19
Lost at Sea
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Pinhead
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 12
Wailing Banshees
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 20
Ice Pirates
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 72
The Don Juan Wall
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
The Raven
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 34
Tradewinds
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 79
Atlantis
Trad 4 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Scirocco
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 11
Davy Jones' Locker
Trad 2 pitches
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
 6
Pyromania
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stars and Stripes Forever
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sleight of Hand
 10
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Thin Ice
 207
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Lost at Sea
 19
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Pinhead
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Wailing Banshees
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Ice Pirates
 20
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
The Don Juan Wall
 72
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
The Raven
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Tradewinds
 34
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Atlantis
 79
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Scirocco
 20
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Davy Jones' Locker
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Pyromania
 6
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Sorcerer »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots! Sep 30, 2014

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