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Routes in Jackrabbit Buttress

Black Pearl, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buffon's Needle Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cottontail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crazy Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Degunker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ernest Stemmingway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geronimo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gigglenut Rampage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Idiocy of an Odyssey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Juggernaut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minerva, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
MysterZ T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mz. Why T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nelson Miles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rose Hips T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SD Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saddle Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Senior Discount T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swine Tasting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 650 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chris Dabroski, John Hoffman 1999.
Page Views: 3,432 total · 29/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Mar 13, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a fun climb that has an old-school feel to it. It is lesser known and rarely climbed, but a good way to approach the routes on the north side of Brownstone Wall.

Pitch 1: Climb the crack and the face to the left of it for as far as you can, until you can set a belay below the roof. Tricky pro where the crack opens up. 200 feet, 5.7

Pitch 2: Pull the roof on the left side, belay when a stance is found above. 120 feet, 5.7

Pitch 3: Continue up the left slanting wide crack until it ends. Long sections of scant pro, easy climbing. 100 feet, 5.6

Pitch 4: Traverse right on a shelf to the next crack over. No pro. 70 feet, 5.6

Pitch 5: Shoot up the new crack to the top. 200 feet, 5.4

Location

This route is located just inside Juniper Canyon on the right side as you approach, behind the large black boulder just past the mouth of the canyon.

Protection

Bring some wide stuff but realize that there will be some sections that cannot be protected because the crack is too wide. The climbing is generally pretty easy in those locations.

Photos

Kurtz
  5.7+ PG13
Kurtz  
  5.7+ PG13
All comments above are spot on. I'll add:
- You could rapp off the bolted anchor at the top of P1 with two ropes, but after that, the only way down is up.
- The rock at the beginning of the huge P4 run-out is often weak. Choose wisely. Move gently. Apr 24, 2017
Leslie McG
  5.7+ R
Leslie McG  
  5.7+ R
This is a very serious climb. You can easily be 50 feet above your gear. That being said, it it solid, old school, fun! I was surprised to find a bolted anchor on the top of what we called pitch 1, and a half rope length slung boulder up further. After that you're on your own. Mar 4, 2017
Ashort
Las Vegas, NV
 
Ashort   Las Vegas, NV
 
Pretty fun climb, adventurous. There are definitely some runouts on 5.6/5.7 terrain, and may be a little bold for the 5.7 leader. Nov 30, 2015
Ben Townsend  
 
Moderate adventure climbing at its finest! On the first pitch, a 70m rope is helpful for reaching decent belay stances. The top of the first pitch has some very thought-provoking climbing. Rope drag is a potential issue on every pitch, so running pitches together has limited value. The big traverse (start of pitch 4 per the description above, end of pitch 3 for us) is less obvious than it might seem from the description. Standard rack to #4 was fine, but I was wishing for more long slings on the first pitch. Finally, in mid-November the sun went behind Cloud Tower a lot earlier than we'd hoped, and we never really caught up with it for very long during the rest of the day. Nov 16, 2014
Mostafa Noori
Fresno, CA
 
Mostafa Noori   Fresno, CA
 
Pitch 1 I found once you start climbing the face the gear is tricky (as John mentions) and can be a little run out.

The next two pitches we did a slight variation:

Pitch 2 We set the belay higher about 40-50ft below the roof. Climb up and then through a tunnel. The tunnel is pretty neat. Climb up the left crack until it ends build a belay. We did not set our belay above the roof.

Pitch 3 Traverse right for about 100ft set up belay as you would on the normal route. I placed a piece at the crack the normal route takes.

Pitch 4 Climb the crack until it tops out.

MysterZ is a better approach for Brownstone. This could be an alternative if there is a line at MysterZ. Nov 20, 2012