Type: Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chris Dabroski, John Hoffman 1999.
Page Views: 6,249 total · 32/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Mar 13, 2008
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a fun climb that has an old-school feel to it. It is lesser known and rarely climbed, but a good way to approach the routes on the north side of Brownstone Wall.

Pitch 1: Climb the crack and the face to the left of it for as far as you can, until you can set a belay below the roof. Tricky pro where the crack opens up. 200 feet, 5.7

Pitch 2: Pull the roof on the left side, belay when a stance is found above. 120 feet, 5.7

Pitch 3: Continue up the left slanting wide crack until it ends. Long sections of scant pro, easy climbing. 100 feet, 5.6

Pitch 4: Traverse right on a shelf to the next crack over. No pro. 70 feet, 5.6

Pitch 5: Shoot up the new crack to the top. 200 feet, 5.4

Location Suggest change

This route is located just inside Juniper Canyon on the right side as you approach, behind the large black boulder just past the mouth of the canyon.

Protection Suggest change

Bring some wide stuff but realize that there will be some sections that cannot be protected because the crack is too wide. The climbing is generally pretty easy in those locations.