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Routes in Brownstone Wall

Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pro Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Description

This east-facing brown wall sits at the upper end of Juniper Canyon. It's a bit of a grunt to hike in to but contains some excellent routes. A scrambling descent from the top is the V-shaped gully on the left (south) side of the wall, called the Gunsight. This gully separates the Brownstone Wall from the Rainbow Wall.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

Follow the standard approach into Juniper Canyon, passing Rose Tower and Jackrabbit Buttress on your right. You should find a decent trail which heads up the drainage, the same approach as for the Rainbow Wall. Where you would turn left for the Rainbow Wall (and where the main drainage jogs left and you can see the Brownstone Wall directly above of you but still 500' higher), leave the main drainage and head right up a talus slope and then a long section of slickrock up a bowl to the base of the Brownstone Wall. It is also possible to stay in the main drainage longer (especially for Black Dagger which is the far left side of the Brownstone Wall) but this involves more bushwhacking. Total approach time is 1.5-2 hours.

Another option is to climb MysterZ (5.7) or Saddle Up (5.9) to the top of Jackrabbit and then walk left to the base of Brownstone wall.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Brownstone Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Peanut Brittle
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Black Dagger
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Scratch Fever
Trad 6 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Armatron
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass Diversion
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Thin
Trad 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Arms Reduction
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Requiem for a Tadpole
Trad 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The Nightcrawler
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pro Choice
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ten Minute Shift
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Time's Up
Trad 6 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pro Life
Trad 4 pitches
Peanut Brittle 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 7 pitches
Black Dagger 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Cat Scratch Fever 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Armatron 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Hourglass Diversion 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Sweet Thin 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 7 pitches
Arms Reduction 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Requiem for a Tadpole 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
The Nightcrawler 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport 5 pitches
Pro Choice 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Ten Minute Shift 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport 5 pitches
Time's Up 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 6 pitches
Pro Life 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Brownstone Wall »

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Melissa Wanserski
Salt Lake City, UT
Melissa Wanserski   Salt Lake City, UT
Some rappelling info on Brownstone North wall:

(Couldn't find this info anywhere else, so I'm posting)

For reference, see Handren guide or this great Beta Photo
mountainproject.com/v/10711…

My partner and I climbed the 1st 2 pitches on Mayday Malefactor on 1/8/15 and bailed. My 70m rope has a few extra feet, but would not have reached to rap this route, so:

From the top of pitch 2 of Mayday Malefactor, we rappelled climbers right to the anchor at the top of pitch 2 of Sweet Thin, in the bottom of the large left-facing corner (first green dot in the photo). *Not recommended* as this was at the VERY end of my 70m rope, and my 100# partner could not reach without me reigning her in.

From this anchor at the top of pitch 2 of Sweet Thin (in the left-facing corner), a 70m rope will make 2 single-rope rappels to the ground Jan 11, 2015
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
Approach info if starting from the Pine Creek Parking lot.

  • Take the main hiker's trail straight into Pine Creek Canyon, staying high and avoiding entering the wash on your left until in the vicinity of/passing the remains of a large flat concrete/roof formation on the left (I guess this is called the "Homestead" or something of the sort). After seeing the concrete, don't descend into the wash just yet, but continue another couple of minutes until the path veers left into the wash. Then, if you meet a fork, take the left path again.
  • Follow the path to cross the stream. After crossing the stream, look for an well-cut hiker's path that heads up/left AWAY from the canyon and up and out of the wash.
  • Now out of the wash, continue following the obvious path, eventually noting cairns that will start to become more and more prominent.
  • You'll see a few path branches here and there - as long as you're still seeing cairns, ALWAYS take the right branch.
  • This will have you eventually heading uphill towards the right edge of the mouth of Juniper Canyon. Avoid dropping into the Juniper Canyon wash until the rock wall (Jackrabbit Buttress?) is actually on your right, almost spitting distance away.
  • From there, the path will take you into the wash, but continue to follow cairns all the way up out to where the path eventually turns flat again and you can see Brownstone Wall. This section will require some occasional 4th class boulder scrambling, but as long as you're never going more than 2 minutes, you're on the right track (as the cairns continue to be plentiful all the way).
  • Once on the flat and out of the bushy part of the wash, continue to follow the cairns until you reach the base of the enormous slabs that spill out underneath the Brownstone Wall (note that the path will take you hard left to the base of the left side of the canyon BEFORE you bank back toward these slabs). Note here that the next section of the approach will be in a line a bit left of your eventual destination at the base of the Hourglass formation.
  • Once at the slabs, look carefully for cairns that mark an easy 3rd-ish class slab scramble directly up the slabs and eventually onto to a small talus field which then leads to the base of the wall. If you instead do not ascend the slabs and continue to follow the more obvious set of cairns back left toward the left wall downhill from Rainbow Wall, you'll wind up hiking up the Gunsight Notch descent path, which CAN be used to eventually reach the fall left end of Brownstone, but will then require needless traversing and down-hiking to get back to the base of the Hourglass.
  • If heading on to the Hourglass section of the wall for Nightcrawler, etc, once over the slabs and the small cacti-laden talus section, follow the cairns until you reach the actual base of Brownstone.
Oct 22, 2015

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