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Routes in Brownstone Wall
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Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Birthday Cake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corruption of the Jesuit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Immaculate Conception T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kentucky's Finest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Me, Myself and I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nightcrawler, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pro Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Senior Dimensions T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Stone the Crows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ten Minute Shift T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Time's Up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 680 ft (206 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Geoff Conley, Jimmy Newberry, Joanne and George Urioste, Jeffre Johnson |
| Page Views: | 91,066 total · 405/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Anagnostou on Mar 24, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Armatron is excellent. Pitch three will become a red rocks super-classic when the word gets out. The others are merely fun climbing on good rock.
P1: Mosey up and left past 5 bolts before traversing left on plates to a belay station in the scoop visible from the ground (below a crack). ~95', 5.8ish.
P2: Climb the finger crack up and step right to the second crack when convenient (25 or 30'). Go up this crack until the angle slacks off into a sandy slab to the bottom of a large left-facing corner. Do not go up the corner. Step out onto the featured face on the right, where you'll find a bolt after a couple yards. Keep heading up to another station in an unvarnished patch at the base of the beautiful chocolate pitch. ~165', 5.9.
P3: The money pitch. Step right, then head straight up on varnished plates forever. Load up the cracks with nuts and enjoy a rope length of perfect rock. ~160', sustained 5.6.
P4: Trend left off the belay, then follow the varnish up until stepping right on a ledge to another station. ~95', 5.6.
P5: Climb the arete above the ledge, passing three bolts along the way. You'll come to to a very large ledge, the Humorous Ledge. ~80', 5.7
P6: Mantle the large block by going directly up the face for a fun V1-ish boulder problem or just scramble up the side. Continue up the arete passing another two bolts to an anchor. ~100', 5.6
From here, scramble west towards a gully marked with some cairns. Be careful as it is somewhat exposed and there are few places where you definitely do not want to fall. Scramble up the gully and to the top of Juniper Peak.
Descent: There is a very quick walk-off from Juniper Peak. First, ensure you are standing on the summit proper of Juniper Peak (marked with cairns and an ammo can cache). Face Vegas and then walk to your left. There will be a trail marked with cairns. Follow the trail back down to the base. Do not try descending before reaching the true summit as there is a very well marked trail descending S/SW into Pine Creek that will not take you to the base of Armatron.
The route name comes from a robotic toy popular in the 80's (here's a picture of it from Honeybee's blog.). They were a lot of fun. So is this climb.
P1: Mosey up and left past 5 bolts before traversing left on plates to a belay station in the scoop visible from the ground (below a crack). ~95', 5.8ish.
P2: Climb the finger crack up and step right to the second crack when convenient (25 or 30'). Go up this crack until the angle slacks off into a sandy slab to the bottom of a large left-facing corner. Do not go up the corner. Step out onto the featured face on the right, where you'll find a bolt after a couple yards. Keep heading up to another station in an unvarnished patch at the base of the beautiful chocolate pitch. ~165', 5.9.
P3: The money pitch. Step right, then head straight up on varnished plates forever. Load up the cracks with nuts and enjoy a rope length of perfect rock. ~160', sustained 5.6.
P4: Trend left off the belay, then follow the varnish up until stepping right on a ledge to another station. ~95', 5.6.
P5: Climb the arete above the ledge, passing three bolts along the way. You'll come to to a very large ledge, the Humorous Ledge. ~80', 5.7
P6: Mantle the large block by going directly up the face for a fun V1-ish boulder problem or just scramble up the side. Continue up the arete passing another two bolts to an anchor. ~100', 5.6
From here, scramble west towards a gully marked with some cairns. Be careful as it is somewhat exposed and there are few places where you definitely do not want to fall. Scramble up the gully and to the top of Juniper Peak.
Descent: There is a very quick walk-off from Juniper Peak. First, ensure you are standing on the summit proper of Juniper Peak (marked with cairns and an ammo can cache). Face Vegas and then walk to your left. There will be a trail marked with cairns. Follow the trail back down to the base. Do not try descending before reaching the true summit as there is a very well marked trail descending S/SW into Pine Creek that will not take you to the base of Armatron.
The route name comes from a robotic toy popular in the 80's (here's a picture of it from Honeybee's blog.). They were a lot of fun. So is this climb.
Location
The route is on the brownstone wall, on the more broken right side. A major cleft up the middle of the wall divides the steeper left side from the aforementioned broken right side. On the right side, there are prominent patches of dark varnish near the base of the wall. The leftmost patch is on a pillar. Then there is a double patch further right, just above a slabby low-angle sandy apron of light-colored rock. Above the start of the climb, you can easily pick out the big stretch of perfect black rock with rectilinear (better word, anyone?) plating.
To get to the route, approach brownstone as for black dagger (up the talus, easy slabs) then follow cairns up and right until you can step onto the apron at the base of the route.
The route has 5 bolts on the first pitch, the first only a few feet off the slab, so you'll find it when you're close.
To get to the route, approach brownstone as for black dagger (up the talus, easy slabs) then follow cairns up and right until you can step onto the apron at the base of the route.
The route has 5 bolts on the first pitch, the first only a few feet off the slab, so you'll find it when you're close.
Protection
This route is heavy on the nuts. Most of your pro is slotting wires between excellent plates, so a double set of small and medium nuts is the basic rack, with a few big ones and a few tiny ones. Cams from blue alien to #2 camalot are nice, but you'd be hard pressed to use more than a single set. If you want to sew it up, consider yet more tiny, small, and medium nuts. If you happen to own them, small loweballs would make pro opportunities where nuts won't go, but you sure don't need 'em. And bring a ton of slings.
Photos
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