All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (11) Juniper Ca… > Brownstone Wall

Armatron

Name: Armatron
Rating: 3.6

5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Brownstone Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Arms Reduction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Birthday Cake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chocolate and Cheese T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Corruption of the Jesuit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Immaculate Conception T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Kentucky's Finest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Me, Myself and I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nightcrawler, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Poopship Destroyer T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pro Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Senior Dimensions T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Stone the Crows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ten Minute Shift T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Time's Up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Voodoo Lady T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 680 ft (206 m), 6 pitches
FA:	Geoff Conley, Jimmy Newberry, Joanne Urioste, George Urioste, and Jeffrey Johnson, Jun 2003
Page Views:	92,561 total · 401/month
Shared By:	Anthony Anagnostou on Mar 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

932 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Armatron is excellent. Pitch three will become a red rocks super-classic when the word gets out. The others are merely fun climbing on good rock.

P1: Mosey up and left past 5 bolts before traversing left on plates to a belay station in the scoop visible from the ground (below a crack). ~95', 5.8

P2: Climb the finger crack up and step right to the second crack when convenient (25 or 30'). Go up this crack until the angle slacks off into a sandy slab to the bottom of a large left-facing corner. Do not go up the corner. Step out onto the featured face on the right, where you'll find a bolt. Keep heading up to another belay station in an unvarnished patch at the base of the beautiful chocolate pitch. ~125', 5.9

P3: The money pitch. Step right, then head straight up on varnished bricks. Load up the cracks with nuts and enjoy a rope length of perfect rock. ~130', 5.7

P4: Trend left off the belay, then follow the varnished rock until able to step right on to a ledge at another belay station. ~95', 5.7

P5: Climb the arete and pass three bolts before arriving at a large ledge; Humorous Ledge. ~100', 5.7

P6: Mantle the large block by going directly up the face for a fun V1-ish boulder problem or just scramble up the side. Continue up the arete passing another two bolts to the final belay anchor. ~120', 5.6

From here, scramble west towards a gully marked with some cairns. Be careful as it is somewhat exposed and there are few places where you definitely do not want to fall. Scramble up the gully and to the top of Juniper Peak.

Note that this route can be climbed in 3 long pitches if using a 70m rope.

Descent: There is a very quick walk-off from Juniper Peak. First, ensure you are standing on the summit proper of Juniper Peak (marked with cairns and an ammo can cache). Face Vegas and then walk to your left. There will be a trail marked with cairns. Follow the trail back down to the base. Do not try descending before reaching the true summit as there is a very well marked trail descending S/SW into Pine Creek that will not take you to the base of Armatron.

The route name comes from a robotic toy popular in the 80's (here's a picture of it from Honeybee's blog.). They were a lot of fun. So is this climb.

Location

The route is on the brownstone wall, on the more broken right side. A major cleft up the middle of the wall divides the steeper left side from the aforementioned broken right side. On the right side, there are prominent patches of dark varnish near the base of the wall. The leftmost patch is on a pillar. Then there is a double patch further right, just above a slabby low-angle sandy apron of light-colored rock. Above the start of the climb, you can easily pick out the big stretch of perfect black rock with rectilinear (better word, anyone?) plating.

To get to the route, approach brownstone as for black dagger (up the talus, easy slabs) then follow cairns up and right until you can step onto the apron at the base of the route.

The route has 5 bolts on the first pitch, the first only a few feet off the slab, so you'll find it when you're close.

Protection

This route is heavy on the nuts. Most of your pro is slotting wires between excellent plates, so a double set of small and medium nuts is the basic rack, with a few big ones and a few tiny ones. Cams from blue alien to #2 camalot are nice, but you'd be hard pressed to use more than a single set. If you want to sew it up, consider yet more tiny, small, and medium nuts. If you happen to own them, small loweballs would make pro opportunities where nuts won't go, but you sure don't need 'em. And bring a ton of slings.