Avg: 3.4 from 260 votes
|Type:||Trad, 680 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||Geoff Conley, Jimmy Newberry, Joanne and George Urioste, Jeffre Johnson|
|Page Views:||36,636 total · 253/month|
|Shared By:||Anthony Anagnostou on Mar 24, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionArmatron is excellent. Pitch three will become a red rocks super-classic when the word gets out. The others are merely fun climbing on good rock.
P1: Mosey up and left past 5 bolts before traversing left on plates to a belay station in the scoop visible from the ground (below a crack). ~95', 5.8ish.
P2: Climb the finger crack up and step right to the second crack when convenient (25 or 30'). Go up this crack until the angle slacks off into a sandy slab to the bottom of a large left-facing corner. Do not go up the corner. Step out onto the featured face on the right, where you will find a bolt after a couple yards. Keep heading up to another station in an unvarnished patch at the base of the beautiful chocolate pitch. ~165', 5.9.
P3: The money pitch. Step right, then head straight up on varnished plates forever. Load up the cracks with nuts and enjoy a rope length of perfect rock. ~160', sustained 5.6.
P4: Trend left off the belay, then follow the varnish up until stepping right on a ledge to another station. ~95', 5.6.
P5: Climb the arete above the ledge, passing three bolts along the way. You'll come to to a very large ledge, the Humorous Ledge. ~80', 5.7
P6: Mantle the large block by going directly up the face for a fun V1-ish boulder problem or just scramble up the side. Continue up the arete passing another two bolts to an anchor. ~100', 5.6
From here, scramble west towards a gully marked with some cairns. Be careful as it is somewhat exposed and there are few places where you definitely do not want to fall. Scramble up the gully and to the top of Juniper Peak.
Descent: There is a very quick walk-off from Juniper Peak, face Vegas and then walk to your left. There will be a trail marked with cairns. Follow the trail back down to the base.
The route name comes from a robotic toy popular in the 80's (here's a picture of it from Honeybee's blog.). They were a lot of fun. So is this climb.
LocationThe route is on the brownstone wall, on the more broken right side. A major cleft up the middle of the wall divides the steeper left side from the aforementioned broken right side. On the right side, there are prominent patches of dark varnish near the base of the wall. The leftmost patch is on a pillar. Then there is a double patch further right, just above a slabby low-angle sandy apron of light-colored rock. Above the start of the climb, you can easily pick out the big stretch of perfect black rock with rectilinear (better word, anyone?) plating.
To get to the route, approach brownstone as for black dagger (up the talus, easy slabs) then follow cairns up and right until you can step onto the apron at the base of the route.
The route has 5 bolts on the first pitch, the first only a few feet off the slab, so you'll find it when you're close.