J + J Swerve
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Brownstone Wall
|Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Pro Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 190 ft|
|FA:||Jonathan O'Brien, Jasmine Farro Oct. 9, 2011|
|Page Views:||909 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||Jon O'Brien on Oct 9, 2011|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis is a fantastic direct start to high anxiety adding a long, quality pitch of 5.10 crack climbing that protects well. It begins directly underneath the h. anxiety dihedral on chocolate rock right next to the start of night crawler. look for a finger crack start behind a bush and follow the swerving crack all the way to the ledge beneath the first bolt on h. anxiety at 190 feet.
set up belay as for nightcrawler below a slanting r. facing corner (nightcrawler's first pitch) and traverse right 10-15 ft. behind a bush to gain the crack. I admit that i used the bush for first left foot hold as i established myself in the crack off finger locks and good right feet.
the crack is strenuous and slightly steep on finger jams for 20'(10.a, purple camalots), then becomes very fun, imaginative and at times improbable 5.9 climbing until the corner ends(maybe 100'), casual 5.8 or easier crack climbing to the belay (final 70-90').
i've eyeballed this sexy swerving crack several times and Jasmine and I went to do High Anxiety and I was bored by the single pitch of real climbing so we added this pitch today thinking it would be 5.7 or 5.8 and what a gem! rock quality was stellar on chocolaty jams with great gear the whole way. Every time it seems impossible a great slot for a finger and gear appear! I highly recommend this start for anyone on H. Anxiety.
double rack to 3 inches, stoppers, triple purple camalot.
rap from the new bolt with two ropes or finish high anxiety.