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Routes in Brownstone Wall

Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pro Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: Jonathan O'Brien, Jasmine Farro Oct. 9, 2011
Page Views: 909 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jon O'Brien on Oct 9, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a fantastic direct start to high anxiety adding a long, quality pitch of 5.10 crack climbing that protects well. It begins directly underneath the h. anxiety dihedral on chocolate rock right next to the start of night crawler. look for a finger crack start behind a bush and follow the swerving crack all the way to the ledge beneath the first bolt on h. anxiety at 190 feet.

set up belay as for nightcrawler below a slanting r. facing corner (nightcrawler's first pitch) and traverse right 10-15 ft. behind a bush to gain the crack. I admit that i used the bush for first left foot hold as i established myself in the crack off finger locks and good right feet.

the crack is strenuous and slightly steep on finger jams for 20'(10.a, purple camalots), then becomes very fun, imaginative and at times improbable 5.9 climbing until the corner ends(maybe 100'), casual 5.8 or easier crack climbing to the belay (final 70-90').

i've eyeballed this sexy swerving crack several times and Jasmine and I went to do High Anxiety and I was bored by the single pitch of real climbing so we added this pitch today thinking it would be 5.7 or 5.8 and what a gem! rock quality was stellar on chocolaty jams with great gear the whole way. Every time it seems impossible a great slot for a finger and gear appear! I highly recommend this start for anyone on H. Anxiety.

double rack to 3 inches, stoppers, triple purple camalot.

rap from the new bolt with two ropes or finish high anxiety.

Photos

Great pitch! Longer than stated, climbed a full 60m and found no bolt to rap from. Better to climb as a first pitch to High Anxiety. Gear beta was accurate, belay off finger sized pieces from top of a pillar. Nov 30, 2015
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
yeah, big john! gettin it done! sounds like fun! Oct 11, 2011