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Routes in Brownstone Wall

Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pro Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,349 total, 16/month
Shared By: fossana on Feb 16, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Mayday Malefactor is a mediocre route on North Brownstone Wall. The route starts to the left of Armatron/Sweet Thin. Higher up it crosses Sweet Thin and takes a line to its right. The crimpy crux is on solid varnish and is well-protected by a bolt and gear. This is a good winter route, with sun until the late afternoon.

Start to the left of Armatron in an indentation right of a water streak.

P1 5.7 (160')
Pass plates and discontinuous cracks aiming for for the right side of a large white roof. Following a hand crack, pull the bulge to reach a belay stance.

P2 5.9 (175')
Continue up the crack, stepping right to reach 2 bolts. Continue up the varnished face to reach three more bolts and the anchor. Note: It's difficult to see the third bolt from the second and it's a bit runout prowise between the second and third bolts. The bolted belay ledge is shared with Sweet Thin and you should see the bolt lines for P3.

P2 5.10c (140'), original
Diagonal up and right past three bolts to a right-facing corner. Pass a small bush and continue past one more bolt to reach the crux.

P2 5.10c (140'), variation
Head straight up past 3 bolts. Pass a bush to reach a left-facing corner with another bush. Follow an expanding crack, traversing right back to the shared anchor.

P3 5.7 (100')
Climb the easy, runout face heading left to reach Humerus Ledge.

P3 5.9+ (130')
Move the belay to the right side of the large block. Follow the thin crack until it joins up with the runout face of Requiem for a Tadpole and the top.

Location

APPROACH
Park at either Pine Creek or Oak Creek and follow the trails heading into Juniper Canyon. From Pine Creek a more direct route is to take the second entrance to the signed Fire Ecology trail and aim straight for the canyon (avoiding the two meandering Fire Ecology loops). The Fire Ecology trail is well maintained and as of Nov 2010 the climbers' offshoot was easy to find. The trail from Oak Creek is of similar distance but flatter.

Once in Juniper Canyon there are multiple trails, the better of which skirt the south side of the canyon. You'll end up passing below Jack Rabbit Buttress to your right and Crimson Chrysalis/Cloud Tower to your left. Brownstone sits opposite the prominent green lichen-covered Rainbow Wall (similar elevation). Brownstone is obvious from its large amounts of dark varnish. Expect some minor boulder hopping and bushwhacking. You'll briefly head up a small pile of talus before winding your way up the slabs. Juniper Peak is a local summit objective for hikers so the route is well-cairned. Watch for ice on the slabs during colder months. Sweet Thin is on north Brownstone Wall (the wall to your right as you approach). Expect ~1.5 hours for the approach.

Alternatively, cruise one of the easier routes on Jackrabbit Buttress (e.g. Rose Hips or Myster Z). At the top make your way west over to the base of the route.

DESCENT
From the summit of Juniper Peak scramble down into Gunsight Notch (there should be cairns). Follow the gully to the east of the notch down to the base of the route. There are a few short downclimbs, but it's mostly class 2-3.

Protection

Single to 3", double 0.5-1". Single 60m.
fossana
leeds, ut
 
fossana   leeds, ut
 
Sorry for the 5 year delay, sqwirll. The first pitch of MF is still kind of crumbly around the roof, but so is P2 of ST. P2 of MF is a nicer pitch that Sweet Thin. You can combine P1 of Mayday directly to the second belay on ST, but you may get some rope drag. Jan 19, 2016
warning: beta dump... the pitch numbers above are a little confusing, and the descent is definitely not the recommended one!

this is the route beta i had:

Mayday Malefactor. 5.10, 5p (or moderate climbing and one move of A0)

Approach: Start from the left side of the Armatron slab in a stance in a dish.

p1) climb up varnished plates,discontinuous cracks, and shallow corners to the bulge on the right side of the huge white hanging face. a stance with a section of poor rock, followed by a short hand crack through the bulge, takes you to a fixed station. ~5.7, ~160'.

p2) continue up the crack for a few yards, then step right (bolts) onto the face. continue up the face on easier climbing (pro will be finicky and iffy here if you want it, slung chickenheads, etc) to a beautiful section of slick varnished rock. Follow bolts up to a steeper section protected with trad pro and pull onto the Sweet Thin ledge. Belay at a fixed station below two diverging bolt lines. 5.8-5.9?, ~175'. It is really nice to have a brown tricam on this pitch.

Note: Mayday Malefactor crosses Sweet Thin here.

p3) step up and right, following the right three bolts past face climbing. then take the shallow right facing corner up, past a small bush, to fun crack and then face climbing past one bolt (crux) to a ledge with a station. 5.10?, ~140'?. you can pull through the crux on gear if you want to.

p4) climb up and left on easy but thought provoking face climbing. pro is finicky the whole way, with dubious huecos, slung featured, and nuts. top out at the notch with a fixed rap station. this is the Humerus Ledge. ~5.7, PG13. ~100'?

p5) walk up and right around the base of the subsummit block. You can finish with the final pitch of the Humerus Finish, or squeeze one more fun lead out on the thin varnished finger seam on the dark face left of the Humerus Finish arete. Follow face climbing to the top (or bail out right to the easier arete at any point). ~.9+, PG13. ~130'.

Descent: See Humerus Finish

Rack: Lots of nuts, including extra small and some brass. Lots of runners, and a few screamers are nice. Single blue alien, double green alien to .5 camalot, single cams to #2. tricams are quite nice to have on several pitches (up to the purple size).

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Scofflaw Variation. 5.10, 1p.

The Scofflaw Variation is an alternative pitch to p3 of Mayday Malefactor. It is harder climbing, but less fun and on lesser quality rock.

Climb directly up from the station past three bolts. Move around a big bush and continue up the left facing corner. gain a ledge with another large bush, and pull up above it into a widening crack that gains the left side of a ledge. Place a bomber directional for your second, and belay at the station on the right side of the ledge.

Rack: Same rack as for Mayday Malefactor, but consider bringing less small cams and a few extra hand size. Brass nuts and screamers can be useful. tricams to purple are quite nice too. one larger cam (#3 or #4) would be nice at the top.

descent: summit the brownstone North/East summit by the large pine, enjoy the view/register, and mosey down the quick descent as described for other routes here. going to the gunsight is a fun by involved summit ridge walk followed by an hour's worth of down-slotting and messing around. instead of fifteen minutes of 3rd class to your pack. Apr 23, 2011
sqwirll
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
What did you think of the first 2 pitches? Is pitch 2 a better option than climbing the corner pitches of Sweet Thin? Feb 18, 2011