Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,923 total · 16/month
Shared By: fossana on Feb 16, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Mayday Malefactor is a mediocre route on North Brownstone Wall. The route starts to the left of Armatron/Sweet Thin. Higher up it crosses Sweet Thin and takes a line to its right. The crimpy crux is on solid varnish and is well-protected by a bolt and gear. This is a good winter route, with sun until the late afternoon.

Start to the left of Armatron in an indentation right of a water streak.

P1 5.7 (160')
Pass plates and discontinuous cracks aiming for for the right side of a large white roof. Following a hand crack, pull the bulge to reach a belay stance.

P2 5.9 (175')
Continue up the crack, stepping right to reach 2 bolts. Continue up the varnished face to reach three more bolts and the anchor. Note: It's difficult to see the third bolt from the second and it's a bit runout prowise between the second and third bolts. The bolted belay ledge is shared with Sweet Thin and you should see the bolt lines for P3.

P2 5.10c (140'), original
Diagonal up and right past three bolts to a right-facing corner. Pass a small bush and continue past one more bolt to reach the crux.

P2 5.10c (140'), variation
Head straight up past 3 bolts. Pass a bush to reach a left-facing corner with another bush. Follow an expanding crack, traversing right back to the shared anchor.

P3 5.7 (100')
Climb the easy, runout face heading left to reach Humerus Ledge.

P3 5.9+ (130')
Move the belay to the right side of the large block. Follow the thin crack until it joins up with the runout face of Requiem for a Tadpole and the top.

Location

APPROACH
Park at either Pine Creek or Oak Creek and follow the trails heading into Juniper Canyon. From Pine Creek a more direct route is to take the second entrance to the signed Fire Ecology trail and aim straight for the canyon (avoiding the two meandering Fire Ecology loops). The Fire Ecology trail is well maintained and as of Nov 2010 the climbers' offshoot was easy to find. The trail from Oak Creek is of similar distance but flatter.

Once in Juniper Canyon there are multiple trails, the better of which skirt the south side of the canyon. You'll end up passing below Jack Rabbit Buttress to your right and Crimson Chrysalis/Cloud Tower to your left. Brownstone sits opposite the prominent green lichen-covered Rainbow Wall (similar elevation). Brownstone is obvious from its large amounts of dark varnish. Expect some minor boulder hopping and bushwhacking. You'll briefly head up a small pile of talus before winding your way up the slabs. Juniper Peak is a local summit objective for hikers so the route is well-cairned. Watch for ice on the slabs during colder months. Sweet Thin is on north Brownstone Wall (the wall to your right as you approach). Expect ~1.5 hours for the approach.

Alternatively, cruise one of the easier routes on Jackrabbit Buttress (e.g. Rose Hips or Myster Z). At the top make your way west over to the base of the route.

DESCENT
From the summit of Juniper Peak scramble down into Gunsight Notch (there should be cairns). Follow the gully to the east of the notch down to the base of the route. There are a few short downclimbs, but it's mostly class 2-3.

Protection

Single to 3", double 0.5-1". Single 60m.

Photos