Avg: 3.3 from 46 votes
Routes in Brownstone Wall
|Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Pro Life T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 730 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||15,224 total, 176/month|
|Shared By:||fossana on Nov 15, 2010|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
If Armatron gets two stars in Handren's guide Sweet Thin deserves three. The route shares the first two pitches of Armatron (including the uneventful crux) before whisking you off to a unique balancey fifth pitch followed by a flaring chimney/offwidth one. The FA is unlisted in Handren's book. The route is south-facing; however, note that it goes into the shade in the afternoon in the winter.
P1 (5.8, 100')
Climb the first pitch of Armatron, which takes up and left past 6 bolts over a brief section of soft white sandstone and onto the dark varnished plates from which Brownstone Wall gets its name. Fixed anchor.
P2 (5.9, 125')
Climb the second pitch of Armatron, starting off with an excellent 30' thin crack on solid varnish. As the angle steepens go right to a huge horn and pull the bolt-protected crux by mantling onto the horn. Traverse right to another thin crack, aiming for the base of a left-facing corner with a fixed belay.
P3 (5.6, 80')
Head up an easy corner to chimney. Pull a roof on big jugs and step left to a ledge with a fixed anchor. Pitches 3 and 4 can be linked with significant rope drag per Dow, an option which I avoided.
P4 (5.7, 95')
Traverse left to a fixed belay below a tree and the bolted flake for which the climb was named.
P5 (5.9, 110')
Make your way onto the thin, balancey flake. The flake is flexy and gear placements are not very useful for most of the way. Fortunately, the flake is well protected with bolts. At the top of the flake move right and mantle onto a small ledge, then make a horizontal traverse to a bush. From there a fine hand crack leads to the anchor.
P6 (5.9, 90')
Climb the flaring chimney (or the face to its left) to offwidth. A double 3" would be nice to have here. At the top traverse right to a fixed anchor on a prominent ledge.
P7 (5.8, 130')
Move the belay left at the base of a short offwidth. Grunt up the offwidth then traverse left to a ledge. Head up a short but slightly overhung finger crack, which eases up after a few moves. Continue up on softer white sandstone to the top of the subsidiary summit.
To reach the summit of Juniper Peak choose one of the easy ramp systems.
Park at either Pine Creek or Oak Creek and follow the trails heading into Juniper Canyon. From Pine Creek a more direct route is to take the second entrance to the signed Fire Ecology trail and aim straight for the canyon (avoiding the two meandering Fire Ecology loops). The Fire Ecology trail is well maintained and as of Nov 2010 the climbers' offshoot was easy to find. The trail from Oak Creek is of similar distance but flatter.
Once in Juniper Canyon there are multiple trails, the better of which skirt the south side of the canyon. You'll end up passing below Jack Rabbit Buttress to your right and Crimson Chrysalis/Cloud Tower to your left. Brownstone sits opposite the prominent green lichen-covered Rainbow Wall (similar elevation). Brownstone is obvious from its large amounts of dark varnish. Expect some minor boulder hopping and bushwhacking. You'll briefly head up a small pile of talus before winding your way up the slabs. Juniper Peak is a local summit objective for hikers so the route is well cairned. Watch for ice on the slabs during colder months. Sweet Thin is on north Brownstone Wall (the wall to your right as you approach). Expect ~1.5 hours for the approach.
Alternatively, cruise one of the easier routes on Jackrabbit Buttress (e.g. Rose Hips or Myster Z). At the top make your way west over to the base of the route.
From the summit of Juniper Peak scramble down the north side (there should be cairns) and back around to the base of the route (if you left gear).