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Routes in Brownstone Wall

Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pro Life T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joanne & George Urioste, John Rosholt
Page Views: 4,393 total, 30/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The broad reddish face to the right of Black Dagger is split by an obvious crack. Climb up and right to the right side of a prominent overhang. The second pitch starts by the far right edge of the roof at a crack. Climb up until an easy traverse left leads to the main crack system. Follow this for a few pitches to slabs at the top of the wall. The upper overhangs pose no serious difficulties. Descend by walking south (left) and scrambing down through the Gunsight Notch.

Routefinding note: on the second pitch there is a bolt some distance above the roof. It is probably easier to skip this bolt and make the leftward traverse a bit lower on good face holds.

Protection

Standard rack.
Ben Townsend  
 
High quality climb, airy and exposed. The second pitch crux stays steep for longer than you might expect from a typical 5.8, but once you get to the left crack it is pure fun all the way to the nice belay ledge. Apr 17, 2016
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
  5.8
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
  5.8
Amazing that the Handren guidebook let this route go without putting at least one star beside it! It is a gem. We found every pitch enjoyable and interesting and good rock.

We roped up to get to the base of the crack system.

The crux of the 5.7 pitch(P1) can feel a bit heady for the grade but it's all there with good pro; same goes for the crux pitch(P2).

The Handren guide is a little confusing about splitting P3 and P4. It makes the most sense to combine the 50' of "4th class scramble"(which felt more like easy 5th class to us) of P4 with P3. In other words, just aim to belay below the 5.6 roof which is the start of P5. Also after P5, most parties will want to stay roped for the last 100ft to the summit.

We did this climb on a partly sunny, windy day(southwest wind, 30mph gusts) and were quite comfortable. Its aspect protected us from the worst of the wind, warmed us with a little sun, and doing the Gunsight descent meant no nasty rope-eating rappels. Apr 18, 2011
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
 
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
 
Nice climb up a continuous feature, and certainly easier than Black Dagger. Only downside is that you have to do the Gunsight descent, which always seems to have snow when I do it. Apr 12, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
This route is easily done in 4 pitches, with a final 100' scramble to the summit.

Pitch 1: Climb to the bolts (thanks Greg!)

Pitch 2: Climb to the good horizontal ledge cutting through the wall (180')

Pitch 3: Climb to just below the big roof. 180'

Pitch 4: Climb to the top. 180'

This is the best way, i think, as it utilizes all of the best stances- i wouldnt have wanted to belay at the two we skipped- in fact, they didnt even seem like obvious belay stances!

Good route, though- not as much fun as Black Dagger, but pretty cruiser and if you're fast you could do this and Black Dagger pretty easily... Apr 7, 2007
Thanks for the beta Anthony. C.S.F. is on my to do list. Apr 18, 2006
Climbed CSF today. The first pitch is nifty, although a little serious feeling through the crux. The second pitch is great. The Urioste guide says to belay at 150', but there is a plush horizontal with a great stance at around 175'. Don't stop early!

I never saw the bolt on p2.

For some reason (i didnt do my online research and we mindlessly and likely incorrectly followed the red book beta..) we thought we had to traverse right on the easier slabby climbing under the upper headwall, and ended up with a belay anchor under an improbable-looking crack that looked burly. so we tried even further right.. (we didn't look at the route from the ground).

Anyways, on the right side of the headwall is a 4th (?) class gully with a varnished chimney entrance. And the 'route' that steps left onto the face/crack there is an unimpressive 5.6ish thing that i wish i hadn't done.

The route eats nuts. I'd bring a single set of cams and a double set of nuts and tons of runners. I appreciated the #4 C4 at the beginning of p2, (old #3.5 camalot would be fine too). Apr 18, 2006
Anthony Anagnostou and I replaced the first pitch anchor on 3/24/06. The new bolts are both stainless 5-pieces, one 1/2" x 2.75" and one 3/8" x 2.25". We didn't replace the bolt on pitch 2, since one friend had done the route and not even seen it, and Larry said the bolt was off-route as far as the easiest line. Greg Apr 10, 2006