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Cat Scratch Fever
5.8,
Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3 from 25
votes
FA: Joanne & George Urioste, John Rosholt
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (11) Juniper Ca…
> Brownstone Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The broad reddish face to the right of Black Dagger is split by an obvious crack. Climb up and right to the right side of a prominent overhang. The second pitch starts by the far right edge of the roof at a crack. Climb up until an easy traverse left leads to the main crack system. Follow this for a few pitches to slabs at the top of the wall. The upper overhangs pose no serious difficulties. Descend by walking south (left) and scrambing down through the Gunsight Notch.
Routefinding note: on the second pitch there is a bolt some distance above the roof. It is probably easier to skip this bolt and make the leftward traverse a bit lower on good face holds.
Protection
Standard rack.
[Hide Photo] Cat Scratch Fever on the Brownstone Wall. The shadowed corner to the left is Black Dagger.
[Hide Photo] The upper overhangs on Cat Scratch Fever.
nyc
I never saw the bolt on p2.
For some reason (i didnt do my online research and we mindlessly and likely incorrectly followed the red book beta..) we thought we had to traverse right on the easier slabby climbing under the upper headwall, and ended up with a belay anchor under an improbable-looking crack that looked burly. so we tried even further right.. (we didn't look at the route from the ground).
Anyways, on the right side of the headwall is a 4th (?) class gully with a varnished chimney entrance. And the 'route' that steps left onto the face/crack there is an unimpressive 5.6ish thing that i wish i hadn't done.
The route eats nuts. I'd bring a single set of cams and a double set of nuts and tons of runners. I appreciated the #4 C4 at the beginning of p2, (old #3.5 camalot would be fine too). Apr 18, 2006
Vegas
Fort Collins, CO
Sequim, WA
We roped up to get to the base of the crack system.
The crux of the 5.7 pitch(P1) can feel a bit heady for the grade but it's all there with good pro; same goes for the crux pitch(P2).
The Handren guide is a little confusing about splitting P3 and P4. It makes the most sense to combine the 50' of "4th class scramble"(which felt more like easy 5th class to us) of P4 with P3. In other words, just aim to belay below the 5.6 roof which is the start of P5. Also after P5, most parties will want to stay roped for the last 100ft to the summit.
We did this climb on a partly sunny, windy day(southwest wind, 30mph gusts) and were quite comfortable. Its aspect protected us from the worst of the wind, warmed us with a little sun, and doing the Gunsight descent meant no nasty rope-eating rappels. Apr 18, 2011
Keystone
Grand Junction
CA