Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Anthony Anagnostou, Joanne Urioste. May 2006
Page Views: 1,163 total · 12/month
Shared By: Anthony Anagnostou on Apr 23, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Hueco Thanks climbs the left of two prominent crack/chimney systems in the Sand Castle face. It's a gentle trad romp to the summit of the sand castle subsidiary face, with an easy single-rap descent down Ten Minute Shift.

p1) start on the far left side of the Armatron slab. 3rd class a few yards left to a stance in a dish and belay there. climb left and up through intricate routefinding to the chimney. belay at a good stance at the bush. ~170', ~5.7

Note: you can do a more aesthetic, and more direct, first pitch by starting up the first pitch of Sand Castle and stepping left to the bush/chimney belay, but it is distinctly harder.

p2) chimney up, past the overhang (route crux), and continue up the crack to belay beneath an alcove. ~120', ~5.7

p3) stem up the steep alcove and follow the crack up a juggy hueco'd pitch to the top. belay easiest with thin-hand size cams. ~160', ~5.7

Location

Descent: walk climber's left along the ledge to the small pine tree and a bolt. five short single rope rappels down Ten Minute Shift take you to the ground. 50m rope ok for the rappels.

Protection

Rack: double nuts, lots of slings, and single green alien to #3 camalot.

Photos

cassondra long
5.7 PG13
cassondra long  
5.7 PG13
I might put it more like "tread gently to the summit of the Sandcastle subsidiary face," which we did not do, eschewing most of the 3rd pitch due to rock quality. Would rather have had double cams. The recommended double nuts came in more handily on our descent. Jan 5, 2013
Shit rock. You've been warned, enjoy at your own risk. Apr 7, 2013