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Routes in Brownstone Wall

Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pro Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: J&J Urioste Feb 1978
Page Views: 1,437 total, 15/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 27, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A neat line with good position and exciting cruxes. This route basically follows crack systems on the rib of rock to the left of Black Dagger.

P1: Scramble up the right side of a low angled featured face above the big pine tree at the base of the route, just left of a wide-ish crack. Pass the large bush (bush on left) and aim for a flat spot behind a large block. Couple of large stoppers work well for the belay. 100' fourth to easy fifth class.

P2: Climb up right from the belay stance to the top of the block and step straight up steep face for maybe 8 feet, then hard right around corner to gain a crack system. Follow crack until it ends. Up and traverse slightly right towards another crack. After around 135 feet, start looking for a decent belay spot which may be semi hanging but will have adequate gear. ~5.5/5.6 PG to possibly R rated.

P3: Climb up short face and traverse slightly right to crack. Finish on steep jugs through easy overhang to nice, rose colored small belay ledge. Medium to hand sized crack here for belay anchor. 75 feet, 5.5.

P4: Pretty much the crux pitch of the route. Take care climbing up the short, steep chimney off the P3 belay stance, then follow the short lower angle crack up which disappears into a lower angle face (with scarce protection, maybe slings on horns and small cams in shallow pods. Look around and don't pass up pro options!). Climb up, aiming for the twin cracks above, angling to the right (which looks to be the easiest option). Finally, some good gear options are available (medium to hand sized cams and large nut). Pull steep, short overhang and gain the nice wide ledge, with wide crack on the left side for belay (#3 and 4 Camalot). 150 feet, 5.6+/5.7 R.

P5: Follow wide crack up to a neat varnished face and corner crack. Stay in corner crack up slick lower angle wall (easier than it looks) to belay atop the small pillar (also the end of the chimney tunnel on Black Dagger). 80 feet, 5.5.

P6 and 7: follow last pitches of Black Dagger.

We climbed up the climbers left prow out of the stance (R rated, no pro for 20 feet) to a nice crack system for 100+ feet leading to a ledge with a tree on the left side. Then finish up either through roof with wide looking crack on the left side, or, right to steep face to low angle face (medium to big cams in horizontals). 140 feet-ish and 5.5/5.6.

Scramble another couple hundred feet to the summit ridge up lower angle 4th and 3rd class terrain.

Note: there are fragile features and some loose rock on this route. Climb "light" and take care yarding on holds.

Location

Located on the far left side of the Brownstone Wall. Left of Black Dagger. Locate THE large pine tree at the base of the route.

Descend down the Gunsite.

Protection

Standard Rack from O TCU to #4 Camalot (or equivalent) plus full set of stoppers. Some doubles in the 2 TCU through #1 camalot range may come in handy.

No fixed gear on route. No fixed anchors.
Ya just gave away the joke!

It is crunchy, but fun and interesting. Nov 6, 2011
This climb is as it's named--brittle Feb 10, 2010