Stone the Crows

Not sure why this route hasn't been posted here, but some people on the forums encouraged me to add it. Definitely deserves more traffic. There's a fragile section but it's bolted and should clean up nicely.

The route starts under the cleft on the right side of an obvious wall-high tower feature that is roughly in the middle between Black Dagger and the Hourglass.  You can get up the slabs aiming more or less directly at the start from the approach. 

Scramble to the highest ledge below the broken-up crack systems. Start directly below the cleft, you should see the obvious left-facing corner of P2 above you.

P1 - 5.8. Handren has the line along the rightmost crack going up and left, my partner climbed directly instead, aiming for a twin crack feature inside sort of a recess/chimney up high. Regardless, in the end you traverse easily right to a bolted belay below the corner.

P2 - 5.10b. step out left and climb the corner to a bolted belay on a ledge.. One bolt at the crux stem/lie back section, very nice varnish. A cool pitch, like an easier version of Nightcrawler although the gear is not as plentiful.

P3 (Original) - 5.10a? We didn't climb the main variation. Walk the ledge to a bolt visible at the end, then step out and go up the face. From the above, it looks similar to the 2nd half of the alternate P3.

P3 (Direct) - 5.10d. Climb straight up from the belay following 5 bolts. The cruxy parts are around bolts 3-5, on somewhat fragile rock, I broke several footholds here although I was able to catch myself every time. I think most of the bad footholds can be avoided if you don't step on small semi detached flakes, their tops tend to break off (sometimes becoming flat footholds). Then a couple of cool mantles (nut and blue TCU placement possible) to the 6th and final bolt, followed by varnished face. Handren claims there are 5 bolts on this face, we didn't find any. It is however much more solid than the bolted section and easier than it looks from below; nuts protect. Go generally up to a rappel anchor on a big ledge.

There's an obvious large (wall-high) tower feature that is between the Black Dagger tower and the Hourglass. The route starts under the cleft on the right side of this tower.

P1-2 single rack to #2 or 3. We placed the 3 on both but it might have been avoidable.
P3 - Handren says "fiddly gear" and I haven't seen the pitch other than from above. Based on the alternative P3, I assume you'd want a lot of nuts, especially offsets.
Direct P3 - draws, and small to medium nuts, especially offsets, for the upper part. It's sometimes possible to use small cams (grey TCU and around that).

Rappel down with 2 ropes. The 2nd rappel just reaches with a single 70 (tie knots), but both P1 and P3 are long.