Ten Minute Shift
Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
Routes in Brownstone Wall
|Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Pro Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||838 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Hansen on Apr 1, 2012|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionTen Minute Shift is a good line up a seemingly improbable line. The first two pitches are great and sustained at their respective grades. There is some loose rock along the way lower on the route. Be careful of what you're pulling down (or out) on. The rock at the 2nd pitch roof is questionable. All bolts on the route are bomber but you might want to bring extra cord or webbing to leave behind on the anchors. The current state of the current webbing is pretty bleak.
Pitch 1: 5.10b, 80 ft. Begin on a few large blocks at the base of the route. Make some 5.8 moves up to the first bolt placing a piece of pro if you will. From here follow the bolts (7) to an anchor on a ledge. Very good sequences, movement and holds. Sustained and fun at the grade. Bolted anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.11b, 80 ft. Looking up at this pitch it looks improbable but the sequences reveal themselves quite nicely. From the belay ledge, move left and follow good rails back right. Follow the bolts (10) up to the roof. Traverse to the left side of the roof. Pull the roof using small holds and glassy feet. This whole flake that you're pulling on is hollow. Beware. A place of gear can be placed after clipping the last bolt before the anchor. Bolted anchor.
Pitch 3: 5.10a, 50 ft. Follow the flare straight up off the belay. Small cams work well here. Trend left around a roof to another bolted anchor.
Pitch 4: 5.9, 70 ft. Move up the varnished corner to another comfortable bolted stance. Bolted anchor.
Pitch 5: 5.8, 70 ft. Follow the corner systems to a large ledge with another bolted belay. This is also the ledge where Hueco Thanks ends.
Descent: Rappel the route with one 60m rope. Five rappels total.