Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,302 total · 16/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Apr 1, 2012
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Ten Minute Shift is a good line up a seemingly improbable line. The first two pitches are great and sustained at their respective grades. There is some loose rock along the way lower on the route. Be careful of what you're pulling down (or out) on. The rock at the 2nd pitch roof is questionable. All bolts on the route are bomber but you might want to bring extra cord or webbing to leave behind on the anchors. The current state of the current webbing is pretty bleak.

Pitch 1: 5.10b, 80 ft. Begin on a few large blocks at the base of the route. Make some 5.8 moves up to the first bolt placing a piece of pro if you will. From here follow the bolts (7) to an anchor on a ledge. Very good sequences, movement and holds. Sustained and fun at the grade. Bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.11++, 80 ft. Looking up at this pitch it looks improbable but the sequences reveal themselves quite nicely. From the belay ledge, move left and follow good rails back right. Follow the bolts (10) up to the roof. Traverse to the left side of the roof. Pull the roof using small holds and glassy feet. This whole flake that you're pulling on is hollow. Beware. A small piece of gear can be placed after clipping the last bolt before the anchor. Bolted anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.10a, 50 ft. Follow the flare straight up off the belay. Place a cam high and work right around the corner and then back left under the roof. Wild climbing. Trend left around a roof to another bolted anchor on a big ledge.

Pitch 4: 5.9, 70 ft. Move up the varnished corner to another bolted anchor. Take care placing your gear as the rock on the right wall is suspect and the crack is somewhat flaring.

Pitch 5: 5.8, 70 ft. Follow the corner system to a large ledge with another bolted/tree belay.This is also the ledge where Hueco Thanks ends.

Descent: Rappel the route with one 60m rope. Five rappels total.

Location Suggest change

Middle of the Brownstone Wall. Look for the triangular roof of P2 as a landmark.

Protection Suggest change

Single Rack to 3"
C3's or TCU's helpful on P3

Photos

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