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Requiem for a Tadpole
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 20
votes
Routes in Brownstone Wall
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Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kentucky's Finest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pro Life T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Time's Up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 750 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Karsten Duncan, Anthony Anagnostou. May 2006 |
| Page Views: | 3,095 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | John Hegyes on Mar 14, 2008 |
| Admins: | Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Location
Requiem for a Tadpole is located about fifty feet to the right of Armatron on the north side of Brownstone Wall in Juniper Canyon. The first pitch starts at the last crack to the right of Armatron before a gully appears.
Description
This route on Brownstone Wall features a variety of features and runs the gamut of rock quality from sugary, rotten sections to unbelievably awesome, bullet-hard varnish.
Pitch 1: Climb up face holds to access a small crack. Belay where the crack widens and is surrounded by large huecos. Belay takes #.75-#2 Camalots. 120 feet, 5.6
Pitch 2: Continue up the crack into red rock. When bushes block the crack, climb around to the left or right on face holds. Climb another 20ft above a brush filled ledge to another clean ledge with a great stance. Belay takes finger size cams. 120 feet, 5.7
Pitch 3: Continue up the finger crack which quickly widens to hands, passing to the right of a large knob. Belay at another ledge with a black arête stretching above. There is now a bolted anchor here. 150 feet, 5.7
Pitch 4: Traverse horizontally left on thin cracks to access a large chimney. Move up the chimney protecting in good horizontal cracks. Above, traverse right onto the face just before bushes choke the chimney. Continue up a steepening slab. Move up on the left side of the arête and to the right side of the chimney protecting with small nuts. Belay at an obvious ledge above the arête. 165 feet, 5.9+
Variation Pitch 4: Climb straight up from the belay and climb the exposed arete on stellar brown varnish. Seven bolts with some gear to a bolted belay at Humerus Ledge. Exhilarating and classic. 150 feet, A little sandbagged at 5.8
Pitch 5: Walk left on 3rd class ledges to a short black wall with a small crack splitting the black face. Climb this crack to a large ledge. Climb one of many options up another black face above for 35ft to another large ledge. 125 feet, 5.10a
Variation Pitch 5: From Humerus Ledge, climb the right side of the final block past 2 bolts. 125 feet, 5.6
Pitch 1: Climb up face holds to access a small crack. Belay where the crack widens and is surrounded by large huecos. Belay takes #.75-#2 Camalots. 120 feet, 5.6
Pitch 2: Continue up the crack into red rock. When bushes block the crack, climb around to the left or right on face holds. Climb another 20ft above a brush filled ledge to another clean ledge with a great stance. Belay takes finger size cams. 120 feet, 5.7
Pitch 3: Continue up the finger crack which quickly widens to hands, passing to the right of a large knob. Belay at another ledge with a black arête stretching above. There is now a bolted anchor here. 150 feet, 5.7
Pitch 4: Traverse horizontally left on thin cracks to access a large chimney. Move up the chimney protecting in good horizontal cracks. Above, traverse right onto the face just before bushes choke the chimney. Continue up a steepening slab. Move up on the left side of the arête and to the right side of the chimney protecting with small nuts. Belay at an obvious ledge above the arête. 165 feet, 5.9+
Variation Pitch 4: Climb straight up from the belay and climb the exposed arete on stellar brown varnish. Seven bolts with some gear to a bolted belay at Humerus Ledge. Exhilarating and classic. 150 feet, A little sandbagged at 5.8
Pitch 5: Walk left on 3rd class ledges to a short black wall with a small crack splitting the black face. Climb this crack to a large ledge. Climb one of many options up another black face above for 35ft to another large ledge. 125 feet, 5.10a
Variation Pitch 5: From Humerus Ledge, climb the right side of the final block past 2 bolts. 125 feet, 5.6
Descent
Apparently it is possible to rappel from here using two ropes on a adjacent route (Armatron?) To walk off, carefully climb down from the sub-summit and scramble up to the top of Brownstone Wall at Juniper Peak. This scrambling route is exposed but marked with cairns.
From Juniper Peak there is a nice descent route to the north that will bring you back to the base in about twenty minutes. Look for cairns that lead through a tunnel and then swing around to the north and follow the scenic and mellow path down to the base of Brownstone.
From Juniper Peak there is a nice descent route to the north that will bring you back to the base in about twenty minutes. Look for cairns that lead through a tunnel and then swing around to the north and follow the scenic and mellow path down to the base of Brownstone.
Sacramento, CA
Anthony and I had been going up to the Brownstone alot that summer. We had noticed tadpoles in the pools formed from seeps in the rock on this approach. Slowly as the days got hotter these pools got shallower and shallower. On the day we went up to do RFTP the tadpoles domain had gone, hence the name of the route. Mar 26, 2008
nyc
i would definitely suggest topping out this, and any other route on the far right side of the brownstown wall (with the possible exception of routes on the sandcastle face). the summit is great, with a register and shade and good views.
the walkoff from the big tree at the summit is straightforward and quick, with only a single move of 4th class. it takes ten or fifteen minutes, unless you go exploring, and that makes it a heck of a lot faster than rapping.
besides, rapping from the humerus ledge would require linking together various routes and anchors, some of which are catchy raps.
the routes on the right side of the brownstone wall go into the (often welcome) shade in the early afternoon (i believe 2-3 pm) in the late spring. Mar 31, 2009
Las Vegas, NV
Sequim, WA
Leading that arete variation is an adrenaline rush for sure. A must do! Oct 25, 2009
Sandy, Utah
nyc
"Plumline Variation. ~5.8, ~150'
Approach: This is a variation finish for p4 of Requiem for a Tadpole. A fun line in its own right, you can rap from the Humerus Ledge down the fall line on the climber's right side of the arete to get to the base of the pitch if you came up another route.
The pitch has a two bolt station in a notch at the base of a long chocolate arete. Just beeline up the arete to the top. 7 bolts protect the runouts. Due to the fact that it follows the natural line, that the grade is more consistent with the previous three pitches than the standard RFAT finish, and the fact that it doesn't require committing climbing on dicey pro, it will probably become the finish of choice. It is also a better finish to Armatron than the easier and far less interesting Humerus Finish. Two belay/rappel bolts at the top.
Rack: double cams blue alien to red alien, nuts including brass, and maybe a screamer or two. Nothing bigger than a red alien." Apr 18, 2011
Phoenix, AZ