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Routes in Brownstone Wall

Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Birthday Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nightcrawler, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pro Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ten Minute Shift T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Time's Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Unknown.
Page Views: 861 total, 17/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 25, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Pro Life is a great pitch of thin face climbing on some of the most bullet-proof varnish Red Rocks has to offer. Well protected and excellent. Done on it's own, probably 2 stars (as is Pro Choice), but when combined with that route the outing is a 3 star day. Pro Life is definitely the better of the two lines.

P1-3: Begin with the first 2-3 pitches (depending on how you pitch it out) of Pro Choice (see that route's description).

P4 (150', 5.12b): Start up Pro Choice's final pitch and climb through it's crux (5.11a), but where that route moves left into the easy corner, instead step right clipping a bolt to reach a stance at the base of the immaculate, blunt arete. Climb up this through two distinct, thin cruxes protected by three more bolts, ultimately continuing up, or just left of, an easier crack to a bolted anchor on a big ledge.

Pictured on the guidebook cover.

Protection

Single set to 1.5" is adequate. An 80 meter rope will allow you to rap back down to the Party Ledge, but I'm not sure if you could do the rest of the rappels anyway so may as well bring two ropes.

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Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12a
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12a
This rout is rad, but it's essentially a whole lot of (good) 5.7 climbing to short V4 boulder problem. (granted there's a 5.10 crux down low) Fun if you're up there anyway, but not sure I'd make a mission just for this pitch. Mar 28, 2017
harrison t
Black Hills, SD
 
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
 
You can rap the whole thing with an 80. Rap slightly to the right from the top of the 2nd pitch, a bit of easy down climbing to the ground. Dec 12, 2015